Merge pull request #7 from proveskit/Austin

Austin's Weekly Documentation Update

docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_1.md

@@ -1,37 +1,60 @@
 # Chapter 1: Battery Board Assembly
-In this chapter, the user will learn the proper steps to assemble an Electrical Power System (EPS) board. The steps can be followed again to create an optional ballast to add weight to the satellite, or while not recommended, additional power to the satellite.
+In this chapter, the user will learn the proper steps to assemble an Electrical Power System (EPS) board. **These steps can be followed again to create an optional ballast. These instructions are included below.**
 
 !!!Warning
     ***Before continuing:** it is important to note that gloves should be worn when soldering and it should be done in a well-ventilated area to avoid the harmful fumes.*</span>
 
 
 ## Soldering the Relay
-1. Align the relay onto the white box by the top left corner of the battery board. Make sure the dot on the top side of the relay is closest to the slot hole as seen as figure 1.1
- ![Figure 1-1](images/8-1.jpg)
-   *<p align="center">Figure 1.1: Flight Controller Board </p>*
+**1.** Align the relay onto the white outline by the top left corner of the battery board.
 
-2. The Relay on the EPS board has through hole connections that will need to be soldered to on the bottom side as seen in Figure 1.2
- ![Figure 1-2](images/RELAY.png)
- *<p align="center">Figure 1.2  </p>*
+**2.** On the top side of the relay there is a dot that must be aligned to the slot hole as seen in Figure 1.1
+
+   *<p align="center">**Figure 1.1: Flight Controller Board** </p>*
 
+**3.** On the bottom side of the EPS board there are through connections where the Relay must be sodered as seen in Figure 1.2
 
-3. The sodering should not be flush to the board,rather there should be enough so that the relay's legs bend and it will be allowed to lay on it's side. This can be seen in figure 1.3 and is also stated on the board. 
-![Figure 1-2](images/relaylegs.jpeg)
- *<p align="center">Figure 1.3: </p>*
+
+
+
+ *<p align="center">**Figure 1.2**  </p>* 
+
+
+
+**4.** The sodering **should not** be flush to the board, rather there should be room for the   relay's legs bend which will allow it to lay on it's side. This is stated on the board and is shown figure 1.3
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 1.3**: </p>*
+![Figure 1-2](images/RELAY.png)
+
 
    ## Soldering the Battery Holders
 <div class="result" markdown>
--1. Insert the battery holders into the board from the backside. 
 
--2. Solder the through hole battery terminals on the top side of the EPS as seen in Figure 1.5
- *<p align="center">Figure 1.5:  </p>*
+**1.** Insert the battery holders into the board from the backside. 
+
+**2**. Solder the through hole battery terminals on the top side of the EPS as seen in Figure 1.5
+ *<p align="center">**Figure 1.5:** </p>*
+ ![Figure 1-5](images/BB.jpeg)
 
 ## **OPTIONAL**: Ballast Board creation
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. Follow all of the prior steps to create a secondary EPS
-2. If additional power is desired for the satellite, a wire can be soldered to the Pack+ Test point between both boards, and a wire can be soldered to the B- Test point between both boards.
+
+
+
+**1.** Follow all of the prior steps to create a secondary EPS
+
+!!!WARNING
+    It is not recommended that additional power be added to this satellite
+**2.** If additional power is desired for the satellite, a wire can be soldered to the Pack+ Test point between both boards, and a wire can be soldered to the B- Test point between both boards.
+
+ *<p align="center">**Figure 1.6:** </p>*
 </div>
 
 ## Check your work
-If all steps were followed correctly, the EPS should appear as it does in Figure 1.6. (notwe that this should show both the front and back)
-</div>
+If all steps were followed correctly, the EPS should appear as it does in Figure 1.7.
+
+!!!Note
+    This does not include the secondary EPS or additional power modifications stated above
+
+ *<p align="center">**Figure 1.7:** </p>*
+

docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_2.md

@@ -7,65 +7,92 @@ In this chapter the user will learn the steps to assemble a foot switch. A minim
 
 ## Make 4-6 Jumped 2 Position Pico-Lock Cable Assemblies
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. 300mm 5 position Pico-Lock cable assemblies have been included in the kit as well as 2 position connectors. The 100mm assemblies will be used for connecting the solar boards to the EPS, and the 300mm assemblies will be used to create all the needed 2 position Pico-Lock assemblies. The first step will require taking a cable out of the 300mm 5 position assembly. To start, take the needle nose tweezers and lift the locking mechanism as seen in Figure 2.1 and pull the cable from each connector housing.
-2. Take the freed cable and insert both ends into one 2 position connector housing as seen in Figure 2.2
-<p align="center">Figure 2.2:  </p>
+
+!!! Note
+    300mm 5 position Pico-Lock cable assemblies have been included in the kit as well as 2 position connectors. The 100mm assemblies will be used for connecting the solar boards to the EPS, and the 300mm assemblies will be used to create all the needed 2 position Pico-Lock assemblies.
+
+**1.**  The first step will require taking a cable out of the 300mm 5 position assembly. To start, take the needle nose tweezers and lift the locking mechanism as seen in Figure 2.1 and pull the cable from each connector housing.
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.1:**</p>*
+![Figure 2-1](images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG)
+
+**2.** Take the freed cable and insert both ends into one 2 position connector housing as seen in Figure 2.2
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.2:**</p>*
+![Figure 2-2](images/Jumped_2position.PNG)
+
 
 </div>
 
 !!!note
-The steps are similar for creating the non-jumped cables required for the burn wire and direct charging ports. The primary difference is that two cables will be required as well as 2 connector housings. The non-Jumped assemblies can be seen in Figure 2.3
+    The steps are similar for creating the non-jumped cables required for the burn wire and direct charging ports. The primary difference is that two cables will be required as well as 2 connector housings. 
+
 
 
-<p align="center">Figure 2.3:  </p>
 
 ## Solder the Jumped Pico-Lock Assemblies to the switches
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4
-<p align="center">Figure 2.4:  </p>
-2. Strip ends of assembly wires
-3. Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire
-4. Wrap wires around leads 1 and 3 respectively as seen in Figure 2.5
-<p align="center">Figure 2.5:  </p>
-5. Solder wires to switch leads
-6. Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around switch leads
-7. Repeat these steps to create 2-4 foot switches and 1 RBF switch
+
+**1.** Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.3
+![Figure 2-3](images/Cutting_Jumped_2pos.PNG)
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.3**</p>*
+**2.** Strip ends of assembly wires
+**3.** Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire
+**4.** Wrap wires around leads 1 and 3 respectively as seen in Figure 2.4
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.4**  </p>*
+![Figure 2-4](images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG)
+**5.** Solder wires to switch leads
+**6.** Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around switch leads
+**7.** Repeat these steps to create 2-4 foot switches and 1 RBF switch
 
 </div>
 
 ## Solder the Battery Heater Assembly
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4
-2. Strip ends of assembly wires
-3. Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire
-4. Strip ends of battery heater leads
-5. Wrap wires around leads as seen in Figure 2.6
-<p align="center">Figure 2.6:  </p>
-6. Solder wires to heater leads
-7. Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around heater leads
+
+**1.** Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4
+**2.** Strip ends of assembly wires
+**3.** Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire
+**4.** Strip ends of battery heater leads
+**5.** Wrap wires around leads as seen in Figure 2.5
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.5**  </p>*
+![Figure 2-5](images/wirewrapping.PNG)
+**6.** Solder wires to heater leads
+**7.** Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around heater leads
 </div>
 
 ## Create Foot Switch Assemblies
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. Insert the M2x20 bolts into the holes of the non-embedded feet as seen in Figure 2.7
-<p align="center">Figure 2.7:  </p>
-2. With the bolt inserted, apply some Loctite to the bolt on the opposite end
-3. Holding the bolt in place with a Philips head screwdriver, insert the M2 lock nut into the opposite end of the foot and tighten the nut partially without allowing the bolt to go completely through the lock nut as seen in Figures 2.8 and 2.9
-<p align="center">Figure 2.7 and Figure 2.8:  </p>
-4. Prepare a small amount of space rated glue
-5. Apply the glue to the inside of the foot on the areas shown in Figure 2.10
-<p align="center">Figure 2.10:  </p>
-6. Insert the switch into the foot as seen in Figure 2.11
-<p align="center">Figure 2.11:  </p>
-7. Repeat steps for all foot switches
-8. Insert all foot switch assemblies into the reflow oven and bake at 185C this will help cure the glue faster.
-9. Let rest for an additional hour
+
+**1.** Insert the M2x20 bolts into the holes of the non-embedded feet as seen in Figure 2.6
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.6**  </p>*
+![Figure 2-6](images/footswitch1.PNG)
+**2.** With the bolt inserted, apply some Loctite to the bolt on the opposite end
+**3.** Holding the bolt in place with a Philips head screwdriver, insert the M2 lock nut into the opposite end of the foot and tighten the nut partially without allowing the bolt to go completely through the lock nut as seen in Figures 2.7 and 2.8
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.7 and Figure 2.8**  </p>
+
+**4.** Prepare a small amount of space rated glue
+**5.** Apply the glue to the inside of the foot on the areas shown in Figure 2.9
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.9**  </p>*
+**6.** Insert the switch into the foot as seen in Figure 2.10
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.10**  </p>*
+**7.** Repeat steps for all foot switches
+**8.** Insert all foot switch assemblies into the reflow oven and bake at 185C this will help cure the glue faster.
+**9.** Let rest for an additional hour
 </div>
 
 ## Create RBF Switch assembly
 <div class="result" markdown>
-1. Insert RBF switch into holder as seen in Figure 2.12
-<p align="center">Figure 2.12:  </p>
-2. Insert and fasten M2.5x8 or M2.5x10 bolts into the 3d printed side. The assembly can be seen in Figure 2.13
-<p align="center">Figure 2.13:  </p>
+
+**1.** Insert RBF switch into holder as seen in Figure 2.11
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.11**  </p>*
+**2.** Insert and fasten M2.5x8 or M2.5x10 bolts into the 3d printed side. The assembly can be seen in Figure 2.12
+
+*<p align="center">**Figure 2.12**  </p>*
 </div>

docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_3.md

@@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face
 
    **1.** Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.1.
 
-   <p align="center">Figure 3.1: Z- Face Solar Board Preparation</p>
+   *<p align="center">**Figure 3.1: Z- Face Solar Board Preparation**</p>*
 
    **2.** Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB.
 
@@ -34,10 +34,10 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face
 
 **1.** Get five 5 pin connectors and align them onto the white rectangular outline as seen in Figure 3.2 and 3.3. Ensure that the pins are aligned to the copper pads.
 ![Figure 3-2](images/5pinface1.jpeg)
-*<p align="center">Figure 3.2: Face 1 and Face 2 5-pin headers*
+*<p align="center">**Figure 3.2: Face 1 and Face 2 5-pin headers**</p>*
 
 ![Figure 3-3](images/5pinface2.jpeg)
-*<p align="center">Figure 3.3: Face 0, Face 3 and Solar Breakout 5-pin headers*
+*<p align="center">**Figure 3.3: Face 0, Face 3 and Solar Breakout 5-pin headers**</p>
 
 **2.** Tape down the 5-pin header with tape to ensure it does not move while you solder it on. 
 
@@ -65,22 +65,25 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face
 !!!Note
       If your XY Face does not come with 5 pin headers installed, follow this section on how to properly solder them on. Otherwise, you can skip this section
 
-   a. Follow the silkscreen pattern on the board to place the components in the correct positions/orientations. For the pico-lock connectors line up the mounting pads when soldering connectors.
+   **1**. Follow the silkscreen pattern on the board to place the components in the correct positions/orientations. For the pico-lock connectors line up the mounting pads when soldering connectors.
 
 !!! warning
       Test all sensors for full functionality prior to solar cell installation (see Chapter 7 that identifies the proper test to complete for the solar boards). If sensors are faulty and need to be reflowed or removed with a heat gun, the cells will be damaged in the process.
 
-2. **Install the Solar Cells (KXOB101K08F-TR) using low temperature solder paste and a reflow oven.**
-   a. Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.3.
-   <p align="center">Figure 3.3: Before and After Solder Paste Application</p>
-   b. Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB (Note: you cannot tell the orientation of the cell from the top of the cell so make sure it is placed properly).
+**2.** **Install the Solar Cells (KXOB101K08F-TR) using low temperature solder paste and a reflow oven.**
+   **a.** Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.3.
+   *<p align="center">**Figure 3.3: Before and After Solder Paste Application**</p>*
+   **b.** Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB 
 
-   c. For cells that are immediately next to each other, scoot them together so that the gap between them is as small as possible. Otherwise, the fishing wire to stow the antenna may get caught in the cracks.
+   !!!WARNING
+     You **cannot** tell the orientation of the cell from the top of the cell so make sure it is placed properly.
+
+   **c.** For cells that are immediately next to each other, scoot them together so that the gap between them is as small as possible. Otherwise, the fishing wire to stow the antenna may get caught in the cracks.
 
 ## Optional: Motor Driver Modification
-3. **OPTIONAL: Remove 0 ohm resistor for motor driver as seen in Figure 3.4S**
-   a. If the solar board has already been removed from the oven, the resistor can be removed by a fine tip soldering iron heating each pad simultaneously. If the board is still hot from the oven, tweezers can be used very swiftly to remove the resistor.
-   <p align="center">Figure 3.4: Motor Driver Resistor Removal</p>
+**3.** **OPTIONAL: Remove 0 ohm resistor for motor driver as seen in Figure 3.4S**
+   **a.** If the solar board has already been removed from the oven, the resistor can be removed by a fine tip soldering iron heating each pad simultaneously. If the board is still hot from the oven, tweezers can be used very swiftly to remove the resistor.
+   *<p align="center">**Figure 3.4: Motor Driver Resistor Removal**</p>*
 
 !!! Note
       The Motor Driver Modification step is completely optional as the magnetorquers can be deactivated in software. Only one X Magnetorquer and one perpendicular Y Magnetorquer need to remain active in order to detumble the satellite effectively. The Z- Solar board should let the magnetorquer coil remain active as this is the only coil on the Z faces.