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added walk through of foot and shoulder servo #67
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Quick review
2. There should be a silver disk, the following photo is a close up: | ||
![servo close up](./images/ankle_leg/servo_close.jpg 'servo close up') | ||
There are three small indents on the silver disk, two on one side and one on the other. The single dot should be pointing towards the ground when the robot is standing and the other two dots towards the head. | ||
These three dots form an arrow, this arrow should be pointing downwards when the robot is standing. |
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This description is open ended when describing any joint. It would be better to specify the actual hole on the printed part that each arrow should point to in the zero position
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@tayloryoung6396 not sure what you mean by " specify the actual hole on the printed part " not sure what printed part on the foot/ankle you are referring to
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Maybe a render of the printed part, with a red circle around the specific hole that the horn points towards. Could be in a subsection with renders for each part
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3. Manually move the disk on the servo so it is in the correct orientation | ||
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4. Place the plastic cover back on and replace all the screws. When replacing the screws, one hole must be left without a screw to allow for the servo to move. The hole left without a screw is the largest hole, which can be seen on the right of the following image: |
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Again, "one hole must be left without a screw" . I would specifically annotate the image (or a render of the part) with the specific hole
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We sorely need this, while most parts are reasonably intuitive (arrow points to next servo in the chain), some of them are very non-intuitive
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It might not be like this anymore, but I went the arrow supposed to point away from the hard stop on the servo? So that when it rotates it will always rotate away from the hard stop?
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Oh that might be it! It would explain why we had a pi/4
offset on the shoulder pitches too
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Just make a render... removes all issues
Co-authored-by: Kip Hamiltons <[email protected]>
Co-authored-by: Kip Hamiltons <[email protected]>
- Remove the circular metal plate from the servo, get the plastic servo testor to test if the servo rotates freely without any clunks. If it doesn't rotate or is clunky, it needs replacing | ||
5. Installing a new servo | ||
- Get the new servo set with the same serial number on the box | ||
- Connect the metal circular disk that came in the box on the new servo, ensuring you line up the indents on the metal disk and servo |
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At this point it would be a good idea to connect the servo to Dynamixel Wizard and ensure the correct ID and baud rate are set. It is easier to do this now rather than after the servo is inside the robot. You can also check that the servo is properly calibrated by setting the goal position to a couple of different values (0 degress, +90 degrees, -90 degrees) and ensuring the arrow on the horn (the three dots) are pointing in the correct direction. It is also worth testing that the servo behaves correctly around the 180 degree point, if you set the goal position to 170 degrees and then to 190 degrees it should take the long way around to get there.
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So do you recommend I add testing the servo before putting it in and then also testing it once the shoulder and arm is on? If the plastic part of the shoulder isn't attached straight, it will also be off when at 0, 90 and -90 degrees.
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- Installing a new servo
- Get the new servo set with the same serial number on the box (e.g. MX64 or MX106)
- Connect the metal circualr disk that came in the box on the new servo, ensuring you line up the indents on the metal disk and servo
- Using the dynamixel wizard, confirm the correct baud rate and ID of the servo. You can also check that the servo is properly calibrated by setting the goal position to a couple of different values (0 degress, +90 degrees, -90 degrees) and ensuring the arrow on the horn (the three dots) are pointing in the correct direction. It is also worth testing that the servo behaves correctly around the 180 degree point (wheel mode), if you set the goal position to 170 degrees and then to 190 degrees it should take the long way around to get there.
- Place the servo into the body, put back the plastic holder and reconnect all the chords that were disconnected in the 'removing servo' step
- Rescrew the four screws that were taken out
- The arms of the robot should be directly outwards when set to 0 degrees. This means you need to orientate the server before placing the shoulder back on.
The single indent needs to be towards the front of the robot, and the two dots towards its back, this ensures the robots shoulder will be correctly aligned.
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Yea, it is a lot easier to work with the servo and Dynamixel Wizard while the servo is outside of the robot, and if you need to do calibration Dynamixel Wizard will refuse to do it if more than one servo is connected. Testing once the robot is fully assembled can be done by running scripts and ensuring the correct pose is achieved.
with correct orientation. On the shoulder there is one side of raised up plastic, two sides with the holes for the screws and a shorter side. The side with the shortest bit of plastic should be faced frontwards, | ||
the same direction the metal circular disk was orientated. | ||
- Connect the chord of the arm again to the slot between the shoulder and head | ||
- slide the arm in place and rescrew the arm to the shoulder |
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The arrow on the servo horn also needs to point in a very specific direction here as well
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The metal circular disk is the horn, I thought new recruits might not know its called a horn. Should I put that in?
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Maybe at the start of this section, include a part on they different servos (mx64 mx106) and what a flywheel and horn are
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We should use correct terms wherever possible. You are right though, new recruits are unlikely to know these terms. We will have to make another page (or add to this page) details about the servos (might make more sense on the page where we detail how to change the gear set in the servo).
To be more specific
- The horn is more of a bronze-ish colour. It has the three dots that form the arrow on it. It won't spin freely by hand (you will almost always need to use an allen/hex key as a lever to make it spin)
- The flywheel sits on the opposite side of the servo (not all servo in the robot have a flywheel attahced). The flywheel is silver and it free-spinning (you can flick it with you finger and it will spin happily)
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Good idea, I will add that section and get some photos as well
@abihall After creating a pull request, wait for the |
@@ -5,3 +5,70 @@ title: Working with Robots | |||
description: How to safely handle and work with robots. | |||
slug: /guides/hardware/working-with-robots | |||
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## Aligning an Ankle |
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Not sure what this page is about specifically? If it's aimed at replacing servos maybe the page should be called that. With a section for each servo that you might want to replace
- Now attach the shoulder back on, ensuring you put back the plastic spacers and leave one hole without a screw (the biggest hole in the circle of screws). The shoulder should also be placed on | ||
with correct orientation. On the shoulder there is one side of raised up plastic, two sides with the holes for the screws and a shorter side. The side with the tall bit of plastic without screw holes should be faced frontwards, | ||
the same direction the horn was orientated. The shoulder should look like it is on backwards. | ||
![shoulder orientation](./images/shoulder/shoulder_orientation2.jpg 'shoulder orientation') |
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The orientation of the printed part on the horn in this picture is incorrect
The flow of this page is bugging me :( I think we need to break it up into a number of separate sections, each section dealing with one specific thing
Then the section on repairing the shoulder pitch servo can just be
And you can then rely on the other sections to provide the details on each of the steps listed in the section on repairing the shoulder pitch servo, and repairing other servos can then follow the same format Thoughts @tayloryoung6396 @JosephusPaye @ysims @TrentHouliston ? |
Hi I have made all the changes recommended (i hope) except for the layout of the page recommended by @Bidski . I am happy to make those changes recommended if needed |
I think that the best way to go about this would be to copy what sites like ifixit do with their teardown/rebuild instructions. Those are super useful and really easy to follow. Is there a way we can make it behave like that? Basically you have a bunch of steps that you need to take to do a specific task and present them in order. |
I like @Bidski's idea for now. Trent's too but that's probably something we should do later. I think it's beyond the scope of this PR. |
That is basically what I am proposing. However, a lot of the steps are going to be shared across multiple different tear downs/rebuilds (calibrating a servo, setting servo id, fixing the elbow requires tearing down the shoulder, etc), so I am proposing having sections covering all of the common steps, then the tear downs/rebuilds themselves can just list the steps (with links to appropriate sections) |
We could see about going over this properly in the lab during the mid-semester break, if we get time. We have two working robots, so it should be easy enough to get pictures of the correct positions. If @tayloryoung6396 wants to get renders for the parts that would be even better. |
@tayloryoung6396 can we get those renders? |
Co-authored-by: Alex Biddulph <[email protected]>
We wouldn't get this merged during the mid-year break would we?? 😍 |
Wait what do you want me to do? Finish this NUbook page? |
@abihall if you could finish it, that would be absolutely lit |
3. Manually move the disk on the servo so it is in the correct orientation | ||
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4. Place the plastic cover back on and replace all the screws. When replacing the screws, one hole must be left without a screw to allow for the servo to move. The hole left without a screw is the largest hole, which can be seen on the right of the following image: | ||
![screw hole](./images/angle_leg/screw_holes.jpg 'screw hole') |
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This picture is misleading
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@tayloryoung6396 we were hoping to replace these pictures with renders, could you get them for us?
A section on servo parts will be added
Another section on fixing a knee will be added
Currently the suggested changes to the shoulder instructions were made, if there is anything that I have missed, let me know.
Link to the preview:
https://deploy-preview-67--nubook.netlify.app/guides/hardware/working-with-robots