My Voron 2.4 3D Printer has a name "QUEEN".
This repository contains wiring diagrams, specification sheets, any documentation I use to complete my Voron 2.4 build. I also am including aesthetic designs for QUEEN's back panel and side panels.
I use Git for Windows with VScode to manage this repository. I also use Git LFS extensions for all the files.
Install Git with LFS extensions: https://git-lfs.github.com/
To Download the whole repository do the following: select the "Clone or download button" and
click on "paste to clipboard" button so you can place the URL for the GitHub repository
to the clipboard. Now Open Git Bash. Change the current working directory to the location
where you want the cloned directory.
Type git clone, and then paste the URL you copied earlier.
$ git clone https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log.git
Press Enter to create your local clone.
Now open Window explorer to the location of local clone.
This whole repository can be downloaded as one large zip file from my Google Drive at: (if downloading via LFS is giving you are hard time)
I will be using the Octopus Pro V1.0 board as the mother board for my Voron 2.4 printer. I will be powering my TMC5160 PRO stepper motor drivers with 48V DC.
I am still planning done planning my Voron 2.4 build.
I have all my PIF parts and sourced all my parts via "sub-kits". This will be explained later.
I wanted to post an Excel spreadsheet for sourcing all my "sub-kits" or individual items for my Voron 2.4 , but I need to remove it from a bigger spreadsheet I have been using to keep track of a lot of different information. After I get done with the electronics case wiring diagram, I will work on providing a Here is the Excel spreadsheet as a sourcing guide for my Voron 2.4.
I have spent 3 months creating the 3D model of my QUEEN Voron 2.4 250 mm³ build.
I have used the CAD models from each MOD (listed below) and incorporated the respective MOD's CAD model into my QUEEN Fusion 360 model. After working in Fusion 360 for the past 3 months I have become aware of a couple of things:
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When exporting sub-Assemblies from Fusion 360 in .STEP format the only sub-assemblies that get put into the STEP file are the sub-assemblies that are visible at the time the exported STEP file is created. So when you use STEP files expect all the sub-assemblies to be visible when you first open up the STEP file. You will have to turn off the options that you do not want to see after you upload the STEP file to Fusion 360 (or your CAD software).
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If a MOD did not have a Fusion 360 CAD model, I used the .stl files from the MOD and used Fusion 360 to convert the .stl files into parametric bodies.
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If you upload .f3d sub-Assembly file and all sub-assembly options are turn on, then please just turn off the sub-assemblies you do not want to see. Sometimes, I exported the .STEP files at the same time I was creating the .f3d files, I might have left options turned on, so I could save the .STEP file.
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I have noticed that if one uses the "save a copy as ..." option that parts will lose their position (x,y,z). So to create the sub-assemblies I did a "copy" to the clip board and then placed the clip board contents into a new file and saved that file.
GadgetAngel's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 CAD model (.f3d) and (.STEP) files:
The full model for QUEEN has a fusion 360 (.f3d) file and STEP file. The STEP file for the full model has been integrated by myself from all the sub-assemblies STEP files. This way I could check the sub-assembly files to ensure that they were created correctly.
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for the LEDs
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for all Panels & Clips
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for all Skirts
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for the Exhaust Filter
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for the Frame
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QUEEN's Voron 2.4 Fusion 360 subAssembly model (.f3d) and .STEP versions for the Gantry
I will be publishing a folder of .stl files for all the printed parts I am using for my QUEEN build, including the ones from my PIF parts (coming soon).
My intent is to list the files needed in each Sub-Assembly and indicate which ".stl files" need to be replaced or exchanged for a Modded ".stl" file. I think an EXCEL spreadsheet would help with this task and can be found here.
The ".STL" files for my QUEEN Voron 2.4 build can be found here
Tool head PCB board (MOD) I am using:
Other MODS I am using for my QUEEN build (Z belts 9 mm; XY belts 6 mm):
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Ramalama2's "Misumi_RBPB5 Mod"; Note: this replaces the GE5C Mod;
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I combined two user mods into one mod for the "Z Drive Motor Tensioner Mod":
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Z Motor A/B Unit combined from Edwardyeeks' "V2.4_z_drive_motor_tensioner_mod"; with my modification for the front Skirts for switches and Hour counter;
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Z Motor A/B Motor Unit combined from Spaghetti-Bolognese's "Z Driver System Mods";
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Jlas1's "Klicky Probe Mod" and information about the Klicky Probe mod from Ramalama2's "KlickyShare GitHub repo"; I also used the following "user mods" for the "Klicky Probe Mod":
[bluedragonx's "BlueDragonX's Klicky Mods" ](using built-in Klicky Probe to X-Axis Carriage Frame): https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/tree/main/Printers/Voron/v1.8_v2.4_Legacy_Trident/Usermods/bluedragonx;
Bluedragonx's user mod changes the X-Axis Carriage Frame pieces to allow for a built-in Klicky Probe. I decided to use the regular Klicky Probe mode and a combination of the following two user mods for the Klicky Probe body (this way the Klicky Probe is not built into the X-Axis Carriage) and I can decide to use the Euclid Probe, if I so desire See item #47:
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StefanRaatz's Klicky Mods; This is a modified Klicky probe with two holes so that you can feed through the uninsulated part of the cable a little more. Gave me better contact.
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Oc_geek's More Robust Klicky Probe Mod; Beefier column and revised holes for zip tie (was def too small); reduced height 1 mm (was excess) Chambered bottom in all direction (also sides) on the probe carriage Microswitch body exposed by a tiny bit.
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Whoppingpochard's "Ti Backers Mod"; Y backers 30 mm from front; X backer 35 mm from the Y axis drag chain;
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Ramalama2's "Front_Idlers mod" ; - these are replacement for Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers" mod;
- Here is the information on Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers mod" if you are interested. Phalanx's "Other-V2-Idlers mod";
9. Badnoob's "AB-BN30 Afterburner mod"; I will be using the Stealthburner Mod instead. Please see item #48
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Cover for Toolhead, I created my own (in this repository) - from Hartk1213's "ERCF covers for the LGX extruder"; I cut the front of the LGX cover for ERCF cover for Stealthburner. See also Th3fallen's website for the LGX_PCB_Mount_Heatset.stl file;
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Edwardyeeks' "Decontaminator_Purge_Bucket_&_Nozzle_Scrubber Mod";
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Tayto-chip's "Skirt_switch_mod" - with my modifications;
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Leandromarceddu's "PowerSkirt Mod" - with my Modifications;
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MarcPot's "Skirt_Mod_250 Mod"; - with my modification so that you can use this with the magnetic bottom panel;
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My BTT-PITFT5-Mount Mod come from the following sources:
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Ramalama2's "AB_Plug_Microfit mod"; or AB_Plug_JST-XHmod; or you could also use the Voron Design Team's "Tie-down the AB motors cables to the Z-Beam Mod";
24. Ramalama2's "Panel_Clips"; I will use the midspan clips for sides and top; - (use 6 mm version - 3 mm panel and 3 mm of foam tape);
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Richardjm's "ADXL345 Mount Mod"; I used information from Padok's ADXL345 Mount;
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Hartk1213's "AB Spinner (Voron2.4_Spinner) mod"; or Rubber Ducky Spinner Mod
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42bios' "corner_panel_clip_cable mod"; Also my own modification for these clips so I can use them to mount the Mikro10 Illumination Edge Bracket on the side panels.
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OV1A's "WAGO+221+DIN+rail+holder mod" from Thiniverse.com; Used to mount the WAGO nuts on the DIN rails.
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The0bone's "Voron 2.4 China Chain Guide mod" on Prusaprinters.org;
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For handling the thermal expansion on the Build Plate for QUEEN, I added the Mandala Rose Works's "Matched Height Kinematic Kit" along with "Voron 250 Standard Bed",
The following will be needed if you add the kinematic kit to your Voron 2.4 Build:
- Modified Purge Bucket;
- buy a longer sexbolt for Item #10 and
- buy some Openbuild's Angled brackets, or you could just use blind joints;
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I also used all Trident DIN clips for mounting electronics and I used Trident 3D Printed Parts on the MGN12 Mod. Thank you, Voron Design Team for all your hard work!
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Nemgrea & Geoffreyyoung's "LGX Extruder Mod to replace the Clockwork extruder";
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LoCoCNC's "Wire_grommets"; modified for Kinematic Bed;
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Mikro10 Illumination Edge Bracket for the Side panels; I modified 42bios' "corner_panel_clip_cable mod" so I could mount the Mikro10 illumination edge bracket to light the side panels.
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Boingomw's "Wago_mount mod" used for Wago mount near the Build Plate;
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GSL12's "wago_221_mount mod"; Used these to place Wago nuts around the whole Voron 2.4 printer mounted to the extrusions.
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AlexanderT-Moss's 270-Clamping-Hinges for the front doors instead of Item #24's Front door clips;
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AlchemyEngine's Skirt-Microfit-Inserts - I modified it. So I could mount a Reset button for the BTT V1.2 Relays shown on my AC Wiring Diagram;
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V6cl's Lift Handles - I modified the Lift Handles, so they will fit my side panels which have edge lighting. Instead of 7 mm clearance I will need 11 mm clearance.
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V6cl's Panel_Locker as the front door handles.
If you are looking for 3D CAD models for the different Voron Build plates you can find them at https://github.com/lecktor/Voron-V2.4
I created a 3D CAD model for the Mandala Rose Works's MIC6 Build plate for the 250 mm build. You can find it at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/Voron2.4_My_Build_Log/tree/main/CAD/Under_Heated_Bed.
I know a lot of you already know the answer but for the rest of us that are still learning about bipolar stepper motors and stepper drivers I will describe the process I used. I never realized that the motors I own are bipolar-series motors.
To me when things are connected in series the wires are daisy-chained together (positive lead1, negative lead1 is connected to positive lead2, negative lead2).
When things are wired in parallel then the positive leads are connected together and the negative leads are connected together.
So I thought the 3D printer motors where connected together in parallel on the 3D printer, which they are. If you look at the system in a "macro" view not a "micro" view.
My problem was not understanding the term "series" and "parallel" when it applies to the internal wiring of the 4-wire bipolar motor (a "micro" view).
I had to look at an 8-wire bipolar motor before I actually got it through my thick head.
Maybe this will help others:
Drawing of 8 wire bipolar-parallel motor
Drawing of 8 wire bipolar-series motor
So ALL my motors are 4-wire bipolar-series motors!
To Determine the amount of Power Required for your Voron 2.4 build:
Fact: During a Z Hope move 6 motors will be active at a time.
Fact: Extruder (E) Motor LDO-42STH20-1004ASH: Rated Peak current: 1.0A/ Phase
Fact: Z motors and AB motors are LD0-42STH40-2004MAH Rated Peak current: 2.0A / Phase
Rule of Thumb (https://robotics.stackexchange.com/a/16333/31219):
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Power_supply_current = number_of_motors * 1/3 * motor_peak_current for "bipolar-series motors" (All LDO motors are bipolar-Series Motors!)
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Power_supply_current = number_of_motors * 2/3 * motor_peak_current for "bipolar-parallel motors"
Since ALL LDO motors I own are bipolar-Series Motors we will use Rule of Thumb #1 ONLY!
Power_ supply_current = (5 * 1/3 * 2.0 Amps) + (1 * 1/3 * 1.0A) = 3.333 + 0.333 = 3.6667 or 4 Amps.
So for my bipolar-series motors I want to know many Watts of power is 4 Amps at 48 VDC?
Answer: Watts = Volts * Amps
So, 48VDC * 4 Amp = 192 Watts or 200 Watts PSU (if the PSU supplies the full power without an aluminum plate for heat dissipation [PSU's Derating Curve]).
Options for powering my Voron 2.4 printer at 48 VDC, and 24 VDC (running all HT motors from LDO at 48VDC) with the following:
See UHP-200 Spec Data sheet : https://www.meanwellusa.com/upload/pdf/UHP-200(R)/UHP-200-spec.pdf
See UHP-350 Spec Data sheet : https://www.meanwellusa.com/upload/pdf/UHP-350(R)/UHP-350-spec.pdf
See UHP-500 Spec Data sheet : https://www.meanwellusa.com/upload/pdf/UHP-500(R)/UHP-500-spec.pdf
If you are having a hard time finding UHP-xxx series of power supplies, there are two names for these UHP supplies. One name is UHP-350-24, UHP-350-48 and so on. While the other name is UHP-350R-24, UHP-350R-48 and so on. The extra "R" in the model number just indicates that you have the option of wiring 2 power supplies in parallel. The "R" version will work if you can not find the regular version to buy.
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48V PSU UHP-200-48 (AC to DC PSU)[(4.2A*0.8)= 3.36 Amps; I need 4 Amps! [without an aluminum plate, so 80%]] : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-200-48/7707242
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24V PSU UHP-200-24 (AC to DC PSU)[(8.4A*0.8)= 6.72 Amps ; I want at least 9 Amps! [without an aluminum plate, so 80%]]: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-200-24/7707239
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48V PSU UHP-350R-48 (AC to DC PSU)[(7.3A*0.70)= 5.32 Amps; I need 4 Amps [without an aluminum plate, so 70%]] : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-350-48/7707258; https://www.newark.com/mean-well/uhp-350r-48/power-supply-ac-dc-48v-7-3a/dp/01AH8032?ost=uhp-350r-48
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24 PSU UHP-350R-24 [(14.6A*0.70)= 10.22 Amps; I want at least 9 Amps [without an aluminum plate, so 70%]]: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-350-24/7707254; https://www.newark.com/mean-well/uhp-350r-24/power-supply-ac-dc-24v-14-6a/dp/01AH8029?ost=uhp-350r-24
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48V PSU UHP-500-48 (AC to DC PSU)[(10.45*0.7)= 7.315 Amps; I need 4 Amps [without an aluminum plate, so 70%]] : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-500-48/8324039; https://www.newark.com/mean-well/uhp-500-48/power-supply-ac-dc-48v-10-45a/dp/01AH8038?ost=uhp-500-48
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24V PSU UHP-500-24 (AC to DC PSU)[(20.9*0.7) = 14.63 Amps; I want at least 9 Amps [without an aluminum plate, so 70%]]: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/UHP-500-24/8324036; https://www.newark.com/mean-well/uhp-500-24/power-supply-ac-dc-24v-20-9a/dp/01AH8036?ost=uhp-500-24
So I could use option 3 & 4 OR 5 & 6.
Since I plan on LEDs; running a Raspberry Pi 4B with a solid state disk drive (via USB 3.1 interface instead of using a Micro-SD card); and a camera, I want to have enough power to add extras to the Voron Build.
I opted to buy the following:
- UHP-500-48 for my 48VDC supply
- UHP-500-24 for my 24VDC supply
- RS-25-5 for my 5VDC supply
UHP-200-12 for my 12VDC supplySince I switched my LEDs from 12VDC and 24VDC so that all LEDs will be NeoPixels, I need another 5VDC PSU instead of a 12V PSU. So I decided to by a combo PSU that will supply 5VDC and 12VDC. I purchased a Meanwell RD-50A
I will use the Octopus Pro to power the stepper motor drivers, heater cartridge, temperature sensors, limit switches, and generate signals on PINs to control stuff, but I do not plan on powering stuff off the Octopus Pro board that is considered optional equipment like LEDs, an endoscope or cameras. Since my Raspberry Pi (running Klipper) is the brains of this setup, I will be using a solid state drive to act as the disk drive for the Raspberry Pi. This adds additional current draw and the Raspberry Pi will have its own 5V PSU.
All my LEDs are 12VDC or 24VDC NeoPixels which are 5VDC. So that is why I am running a second separate 5VDC PSU and added additional current capability to my 24VDC supply.
I plan on running all TMC5160 (HV) PRO stepper motor drivers for all my motors on QUEEN. I know this is an overkill but if I want the power it will be there, and I do not want to redo wiring at a later date.
Likewise, I am hoping to fit all of my electronics into the electronics case for a 250 mm build. Edited: There is not enough room for all the PSU and all the electronics therefore I developed my own "Litter Box" Mod, so I can keep the AC Power in the bottom electronic's case and use my "Litter Box" for the DC electronic components.
Click here to get explanation about the "Litter Box" Mod.
1/5/2022: Click here to see further information about the "Voron 2.4 AC wiring diagram".
Click here see the JPG file for the "Voron 2.4 AC Electrical Wiring Diagram"
To download the PDF just click on the filename "Voron_2.4_Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram_AC_wiring.pdf" and hit the download button.
How did I go about calculating the size of the UPS Battery Backup Units I needed for the QUEEN Build and the Voron 2.4-LDO Build
First off, if you have not heard I bought the Voron 2.4 300 mm³ LDO kit. I need to build a "close to spec" Voron 2.4 printer so that I can build my dream printer "QUEEN". This way I will have a work horse printer that I can use to further develop my modifications I am making to the QUEEN build.
Back to the issue at hand. How did I determine the amount of VAC I would need for each of my Voron 2.4 builds? Once you decide on the power supply units (PSUs) you will be using for your build, get hold of the data sheets for each of the PSU and look at the specification called "INPUT" "AC Current (typ.)" there should be an amount of amps listed for either 115VAC or 230VAC. For the USA and corresponding countries that use 120VAC (60Hz) or you will see on the spec sheet of the PSU a listing for "115VAC". While Europe uses 230VAC (50Hz), you will see on the spec sheet of the PSU a listing for "230VAC". Take the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for your type of power distribution system and add them all together to get a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value. So for sake of an example, I am in the USA, so I added all my "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values together for my 4 PSU and got a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" = 11.7 amps for the QUEEN build.
Now I was looking at the APC UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup and Surge Protector Unit from Amazon. It says in the title that is has 1500VA. So I take that number and divide 115VAC into it to give me the total INPUT AC Current (typ) that this UPS Battery Backup unit can handle. So 1500/115 = 13.0434782 Amps maximum. I only need 11.7 amps. So take 11.7/13.0434782 to see what % of the total I will be using = 0.89699 or 89.699%. So I have 100%-89.699% of overhead left unused which is equal to 10.30% left unused. As long as I have at least 10% unused overhead available, I will purchase the unit.
Now let us look at the Voron 2.4 LDO kit. When I add up all the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for that build I get a total of 4 Amps. I have an extra APC UPS unit here at my home that is called APC UPS 850VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector. So I take 850/115 = 7.3913 Amps maximum. I am only using 4 Amps. What is my left unused overhead value? 1-(4/7)*100=42.86%. I feel better with an overhead that large. I personally would not buy a UPS unit that did not give me at least a 10% unused overhead value.
Added on 1/11/2022:
To calculate the total "INPUT AC Current Draw" from your Voron 2.4 build, look at each of the PSUs you have included in your Voron 2.4. On the data sheet for the PSUs you will see a specification labeled "INPUT" "AC Current (typ.)" there should be an amount of amps listed for either 115VAC or 230VAC. Take the "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values for your type of power distribution system and add them all together to get a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value.
So for example, I am in the USA, so I added all my "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" values together for the 115VAC option and my 4 PSUs and draw a total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value of 11.7 Amps for the QUEEN build. For the Voron_LDO build by total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 4 Amps.
I purchased this BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button which is rated up to 10 Amps. So, for the Voron_LDO build this BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button will work without modification. I can run both the AC "LINE" and the AC "NEUTRAL" wires from the wall outlet into the "BIG RED" mushroom button and use the two NC contacts to switch those lines (one contact per wire).
But for the QUEEN Build the total "INPUT AC Current (typ.)" value is 11.7 Amps, which is above the rated 10 Amps for this BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button. The problem is I could not find a BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button that is rated for 20 Amps on Amazon. So this is what I have opted to do. In the USA, we really do not need to switch the AC "Neutral" wire but switching the AC "Line" wire is what is really needed. Since this BIG RED Mushroom Emergency Button has TWO normally closed (NC) contacts and each contact is rated for 10 Amps, I can just run the AC "Line" wire into the two NC contacts in parallel. Think of the BIG RED Mushroom button as a DPST switch. By wiring the contacts up in parallel then each contact will handle 10 Amps and now my BIG RED Mushroom Button can handle 20 Amps on the AC "Line" wire. On the output of the NC contacts the two AC "Line" wires are brought back together for a single output feed.
So now I need to change my "AC wiring diagram" to reflect this change in the BIG RED button for the QUEEN Build.
I have updated the "AC wiring diagram" to reflect the changes to the BIG RED mushroom Emergency Button.
I also modified the Skirt-Microfit-Inserts Mod from Ette's ERCF project so that I would have a place to mount QUEEN's "Reset Printer Only" buttons. The other four switches will control four Neopixel LED Strings, and they will be on the "DC wiring diagram". I also need to print the 300 mm front skirt version so that I have a place to mount this "Skirt_Insert" called "[a]_Button_mount Z-tensioner_Mod_Front_OR_Rear_Hour_Counter_Skirt_A_300.stl" and "[a]_Button_mount_Front_OR_Rear_Rocker-switches_Skirt_B_300.stl".
To learn more about parallel circuits see UNDERSTANDING & CALCULATING PARALLEL CIRCUITS - EXPLANATION
Here is a diagram on how to wire two NC contacts up in parallel:
You can view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-Color-PIN-V3.0.pdf" and then hit the download button.
You can view an even higher resolution image (give it a minute or two to load, it takes longer due to the higher resolution) when you view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-Color-PIN-V3.0-400ppi.pdf" and then hit the download button.
You can download the JPG file for this "Color PIN Diagram" by clicking on the filename "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-color-PIN-V3.0.jpg" or "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-color-PIN-V3.0-400ppi.jpg" and then hit the download button.
Again, to download the PDF just click on the filename "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-Color-PIN-V3.0.pdf" or "BIGTREETECH-Octopus-Pro-V1.0-Color-PIN-V3.0-400ppi.pdf" and hit the download button.
This is the wiring harness diagram I developed for my Voron 2.4 build, it is also in the directory called "Wiring_Harness_Diagram".
Please take notice of the "Notes" section on the "Wiring_Harness_Diagram".
To ensure you see it, I am going to repeat it here:
Note about the Hartk1213 v3.rabbit board:
If the jumper pads on the back of the v3.rabbit are configured
incorrectly you could end up damaging your Octopus Pro mother board!!
Because there are two different versions of this Toolhead board around (let’s call them version #1,
and version #2), before powering on your printer, please ensure that the jumper pads on the back of
the v3.rabbit Toolhead board are properly configure for your FANS and ABL!
How to tell which version of the v3.rabbit Toolhead board you own:
If you turn the board over on its back, you will see a bank of jumper pads. For version #1 of the
v3.rabbit Toolhead board has 4 columns by 3 rows of jumper pads. For version #2 of v3.rabbit
Toolhead board has 3 columns by 3 rows of jumper pads. If you have version #1 of the v3.rabbit
Toolhead board (4 columns by 3 rows of jumper pads) than you are responsible for bridging the
jumper pads to your desired voltage (in my case I would solder a bridge to 24VDC for ABL, PCF, HEF,
and FS). If you have version #2 of the v3.rabbit Toolhead board (3 columns by 3 rows of jumper
pads) than all the selectable voltages default to 24VDC!
Here is what the labels mean:
ABL means auto bed leveling or an inductive probe or the proximity sensor connector; PCF means
Part Cooling Fan; HEF means Hotend Fan; and FS means Filament Switch Sensor.
For version #1 of the v3.rabbit board, the columns are labeled from left to right: ABL, PCF, HEF,
FS. For version #2 of the v3.rabbit board, the columns are labeled from left to right: ABL, PCF,
HEF.
For version #1 and version #2 the rows are: 1st row is 24VDC; 2nd row is (ABL, PCF, or HEF, {only
on Version #1 FS}); and 3rd row is 5VDC.
If you have version #2 and you want 5VDC, you are going to cut the trace to the 24VDC on the
desired PIN (ABL, PCF or HEF)!
You can download the JPG file for this "Wiring_Harness_Diagram" by clicking on the filename "Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.jpg".
You can view an even higher resolution image (give it a minute or two to load, it takes longer due to the higher resolution) when you view the JPG in your browser by clicking on the filename "Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.jpg" and then hit the download button.
You can view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename "Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness.pdf" and then hit the download button.
You can view an even higher resolution image (give it a minute or two to load, it takes longer due to the higher resolution) when you view the PDF in your browser by clicking on the filename "Voron_2.4_Tool_Head_PCB__Wiring_Harness_400ppi.pdf" and then hit the download button.
"Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram" directory you will find the wiring diagram for the electronics case for QUEEN:
Click here see the JPG file for the "Voron 2.4 AC Electrical Wiring Diagram"
To download the PDF just click on the filename "Voron_2.4_Electronics_Case_Wiring_Diagram_AC_wiring.pdf" and hit the download button.
You need to look at the torque curve for your motors and see how your motors perform at different voltages.
Here is an Excel spreadsheet that can help you: https://github.com/eddietheengineer/documentation/tree/master/stepper_motor/data
To download the spreadsheet, just click on the file named "motor_torque_sim_v7_database.xlsm" and hit the download button.
Once the Excel spreadsheet "motor_torque_sim_v7_database.xlsm" has downloaded, open it up in Excel but remember to "Enable" editing. If you do not enable editing you will not be able to see the "torque curve" graph. Also, the motors that are graphed can be chosen from a dropdown list. The voltage you run the stepper motors at can also be entered as can the current level.
Here are examples of Torque Curves produced by the Excel Spreadsheet:
As you will see when you go from 24V to 48V you can move faster. Also notice that when you go from 48V to 60V the gain is smaller than the jump from 24V to 48V!
Here is the Torque Curve for the specified stepper motors at 24 VDC:
Here is the Torque Curve for the same specified stepper motors at 48 VDC:
Here is the Torque Curve for the same specified stepper motors at 60 VDC:
As you can see when you go from 24V to 48V you can move faster. Also notice that when you go from 48V to 60V the gain is smaller than the jump from 24V to 48V!
The BIGTREETECH GitHub repository for Octopus Pro is located at https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro
The BIGTREETECH GitHub repository for Octopus 1.0/1.1 is located at https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0
This repository also has information on how to wire up an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board for a Voron Build and is located at https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-V1.0/tree/master/Octopus%20works%20on%20Voron%20v2.4/Firmware
I am using a Raspberry Pi 4B that I bought from CanaKit. You can choose to run the Raspberry Pi 4B with a micro-SD card, or you can use a solid state drive as your disk drive.
I bought a Samsung 870 EVO 500 GB SATA (2.5") Solid State Drive (SSD) (MZ-77E500) from Amazon with a StarTech.com USB 3.1 to 2.5" SATA Hard Drive Adapter.
It does not matter which item you use to boot the Raspberry Pi 4B, but you do need at least a micro-SD card.
The first thing you will need to do is to format the micro-SD card or the SSD. I have a Windows 10 machine so all my instructions will assume you are using a Windows 10 OS.
Before you can format a SSD you first need to initialize the media. On Window 10, "Right-click" on the startup menu in the lower left corner of your desktop. Choose the "Disk Management" option. The "Disk Management" tool will automatically ask you if you want to initialize the new disk drive. Say "Yes". When Windows is done, exit the "Disk Management" Tool. Now you need to create a primary partition for the SSD. Since we will be creating a primary partition of FAT32 larger than 32 GB, we can not use the Windows 10 "Disk Management" Tool to do this.
I like to use the program "MiniTool Partion Wizard", so click here. As a home user you can download it and use it for free. Download and Install the software onto your computer. With the "MiniTool Partion Wizard" you will need to create a primary partion by choosing the square labeled "Disk & Partition Management". Choose the new destination drive and select "Create a partition". Set "Create As" field to "Primary", set "File System" as "FAT32" and accept default for everything else. Select "Ok". Now all that did was place the command into the Que. You need to select "Apply" to get the software to actually execute the command. Once "MiniTool Partion Wizard" is done creating the primary partion you can format the SSD by choosing the "Format Partition" and set the "File System" field to "FAT32". Leave all other fields at the default. Select "OK" and "Apply". When "MiniTool Partion Wizard" is finished you can exit the software by closing out the window.
For a micro-SD card, all you need to do is place the micro-SD card into an adapter that will allow your Windows 10 machine to read the micro-SD card. I need a micro-SD card to USB reader. You can use windows to format the micro-SD card by opening Windows file explorer [Win Key]+[E key] select "This PC" now right-click on the micro-SD card and choose "Format". Set the "File System" field to "FAT32" and click "Start".
Once the micro-SD card (or SSD drive) is formatted for FAT32 you are ready to burn the image of "Raspberry Pi OS lite" onto the media. First you need to download the image of Raspberry Pi OS Lite, by clicking here. Select "Download" next to the item listed as "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" and save the file onto your local disk drive. Remember where you put it because you will need to navigate to the image file in the next step. Before moving onto the next step take the time now to Un-Zip the folder, so you will be able to access the image (*.img) file.
Once the download is complete, you will need another program called "Balena Etcher", so click here. Select "Download for Windows (x86|x64)" and save the file to your disk drive. Install the "Balena Etcher" software on to your computer.
Open Etcher and choose "Select Image". You now have to navigate to the directory of where you stored the image of "Raspberry Pi OS Lite. The name of the file for my "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" was "2021-10-30-raspios-bullseye-armhf-lite.img". Now choose "Select Drive". Since you formatted the micro-SD card (or the SSD) the media should have been assigned a disk drive letter. Ensure you have selected the correct drive letter. You do not want to overwrite the wrong drive letter. Disclaimer: I will not be held responsible for anyone who overwrites their main disk drive for their computer system. Double check that you selected the correct drive letter and that it matches the one for your micro-SD card (or the SSD) that you will be using with your Raspberry Pi 4B. Once you are sure you have selected the correct drive letter, now select "Flash!". Etcher might give you a warning especially if you are flashing to a SSD, just again ensure you have the correct drive letter and when you are sure tell Etcher "yes or proceed". Etcher will then take the *.img file and write it to the media. After Etcher is finished it will automatically dismount the media from your computer. So unplug the USB connector of the micro-SD card (or SSD) and plug it back into your USB port.
We now have to add a file to the micro-SD card (or SSD). This file is an empty file. You just need to create the filename "SSH". I usually just right-click inside the Window Explorer folder for the micro-SD card (or SSD) and choose the option of "New" → "Text document". I assign the name "SSH" and remove the extension ".txt". This is a very important step the file CAN NOT have a file extension. The file must be named "SSH" or "ssh" without an extension. The empty ssh file will tell the "Raspberry Pi OS Lite" operating system to enable the SSH sever automatically upon first boot up.
Once you have added the ssh file to the contents of the micro-SD card (or SSD) it is now time to dismount the media from your computer and plug the media into the Raspberry Pi 4B, so it can boot up (of course you need to ensure you also connect a power supply to the Raspberry Pi 4B and an Ethernet cable). Once you have plugged in the micro-SD card (or SSD) to the Raspberry Pi, and connect an Ethernet cable to the Ethernet port, turn on the power supply and allow it to boot.
The Raspberry Pi OS will look to see if a micro-SD card is present, if a micro-SD card is present it will try to boot off the micro-SD card. But if a micro-SD card is not present, it will start to look for another media to boot from and this is when it will find the solid state drive. So for those of you that want to use the SSD as the main boot device make sure that the micro-SD card reader of your Raspberry Pi is empty when you have the SSD attached to the USB 3.0 port.
The Raspberry Pi will boot and then be assigned an IP address on your network. We need to know the IP address, so we can remotely log in to the Raspberry Pi. On a Windows 10 machine open up a command prompt window, and type the command "ping raspberrypi.local -4". Since this is a fresh installation of the Raspberry Pi, all Raspberry Pi are assigned a hostname of raspberrypi after the initial boot. The default login information is username is "pi" and password is "raspberry". After you perform the windows cmd "ping raspberrypi.local -4", the ping command will display an IP address that it transmitted packets too. Write down the IP address that received those packets. This is the IP address of your new Raspberry Pi.
To set up Klipper on the new Raspberry Pi you will need to remotely log in into the Raspberry Pi via ssh. To do this you need another software package called "Putty", click here. Install the software on your computer. Now run Putty and enter the IP address (in the Host Name field) you saw in the "ping raspberrypi.local -4" command. Leave the Port number set to 22. Now hit "Open". You should see a window that pops up that says something about the authorization key has not been stored. Just say you trust the device. You will then get the login prompt. Enter in "pi" for the username and "raspberry" for the password.
If you get the "connect rejected" message, then there is something wrong with the ssh server. When you placed the empty ssh file in the file folder of the boot media you either misspelled the filename or left the ".txt" extension on the filename. You can fix the "connect rejected" message by powering off the Raspberry Pi; removing the boot media from the Raspberry Pi; reattach the boot media to your computer and double-check the empty ssh filename is "ssh" only; then reattach the boot media to the Raspberry Pi and reboot again.
Now you should be logged in to the Raspberry Pi. When you see a "$" this means you need to type a command at the command prompt. If you see a ">" this means you type a number at the current command prompt. Follow the below sequence to install KIAUH, Klipper, MoonRacker, Mainsail, KlipperScreen and Octoprint. Once that is all installed we will then be hooking up the Octopus or Octopus Pro boards so that we can flash a new bootloader on to the boards. This new bootloader will allow the Raspberry Pi to talk to the Octopus board. But for now just follow the below sequence to install everything you will need on the Raspberry Pi 4B. Also, make sure you have an Ethernet cable attached to the Raspberry Pi's Ethernet port:
$sudo raspi-config
The raspi-config Menu will be displayed.
>System Options -> change the system password (make note of the password so you do not forget it)
>System Options -> Boot/Autologin -> Console Autologin; turn this on
>System Option -> Network at Boot; turn this on
>Interface Options -> turn on camera interface
>Interface Options -> turn on SSH
>Localization Options -> set Time Zone for your area -> for me USA: Eastern Time
>Localization Options -> set Localization -> if in USA use "en_US.UTF-8"
>Localization Options -> WLAN Country -> set this to your country -> for me USA
>Advanced Options -> expand filesystem
>Finish
$sudo reboot
Now wait for the device to reboot and use Putty to log back into the Raspberry pi and continue onto the next step
$sudo apt update
$sudo apt full-upgrade
$sudo apt autoremove
sudo apt-get install git -y
$cd ~
$git clone https://github.com/th33xitus/kiauh.git
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
The KIAUH menu will appear.
>1
>1
>2
make a note of the Moonracker Instance (write down the IP address)
>3
make a note of the MJPG-Streamer webcam URLs
>5
>7
make a note of the Octoprint IP address
>B
>Q
Now that Klipper and its corresponding software has been installed onto the Raspberry Pi, I want to do a clean reboot before we go onto the next step of compiling the Klipper firmware and updating the mother board (Octopus or Octopus Pro board).
$sudo reboot
If you have either an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board you will need a fresh micro-SD card so that you can transfer the compiled firmware over to the Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus PRO board. You will need to download and install on your PC the software "winscp", by clicking here.
The Winscp software will allow you to transfer a file off the Raspberry Pi to your PC's disk drive. This way when the Raspberry Pi has finished compiling the firmware for the Octopus board you can grab the "Klipper.bin" file and transfer it to your PC disk drive and then copy it over to the Micro-SD card that you will place into the Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader. When you copy the "klipper.bin" file over to the Micro-SD card remember to rename it to "firmware.bin". If the file is not renamed "firmware.bin" then the Octopus boards (V1.0/V1.1 or PRO) bootloader will not be updated properly.
Now we need to apply power to the Octopus board. I typically power the Octopus board using the USB-C cable when I do this next step (ensure you have the Jumper on the for PWR SELECTION header so that the USB-C can power the 5V rail of the Octopus board)
But you could power the Octopus board by using an independent PSU and attach the 12VDC and GND to the screw terminals (just ensure you remove the Jumper from the PWR SELECTION header so that the 5V rail is not getting power via the USB-C cable)
Now use the USB-C cable that came with the Octopus board and attach it to the Raspberry Pi (USB 2.0) port. If the Jumper is on the PWR SELECTION header than the Raspberry Pi will supply the 5VDC to the 5V rail of the Octopus Board and also communicate to the Octopus board via USB. If the Jumper is removed from the PWR SELECTION header than the USB-C cable will be used for communications only.
When the Raspberry Pi reboots, use Putty to log back into the device.
If you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board follow the steps below (skip these steps if you have an Octopus Pro board with the F446 chip or the F429 chip):
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
The KIAUH menu will appear.
>4
>3
[*] Enable extra low-level configuration options by moving the cursor and hitting the space bar until the "*" appears.
The space bar is a toggle so when the "*" appears it means you have selected the item.
When the "*" is not present it means the item is NOT selected. You use the arrow keys on your keyboard to move up and down the menu.
set Micro-controller Architecture to (STMicroelectronics STM32)
set Processor model to (STM32F446)
set Bootloader offset to (32KiB bootloader)
set Clock Reference to (12 Mhz crystal)
set Communication interface to (USB (on PA11/PA12))
>Q Y
The firmware will compile.
>B
>Q
You will now have to use a micro-SD card to flash the Octopus board with the new firmware. The Octopus board will not
update the firmware via USB cable! After you have copied the out\Klipper.bin file over to your PC (using Winscp) and onto
the micro-SD card, please rename the "klipper.bin" file to "firmware.bin". Once you place the micro-SD card into the
Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader it will update its bootloader. To ensure that the board really did update the
bootloader pull the micro-SD card out of the Octopus board and reload it onto your PC. Check to see if the filename has
been change from "firmware.bin" to "FIRMWARE.CUR". If the filename changed then the Octopus board updated its bootloader correctly.
If you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or the Octopus Pro board with the F429 chip, skip the following steps. These steps are for the Octopus PRO board with the F446 chip. If you have an Octopus Pro board that uses the F446 chip, please follow the next steps:
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
The KIAUH menu will appear.
>4
>3
[*] Enable extra low-level configuration options by moving the cursor and hitting the space bar until the "*" appears.
The space bar is a toggle so when the "*" appears it means you have selected the item
when the "*" is not present it means the item is NOT selected. You use the arrow keys on your keyboard to move up and down the menu.
set Micro-controller Architecture to (STMicroelectronics STM32)
set Processor model to (STM32F446)
set Bootloader offset to (32KiB bootloader)
set Clock Reference to (12 Mhz crystal)
set Communication interface to (USB (on PA11/PA12))
>Q Y
The firmware will compile.
>B
>Q
You will now have to use a micro-SD card to flash the Octopus board with the new firmware. The Octopus board will not
update the firmware via USB cable! After you have copied the out\Klipper.bin file over to your PC (using Winscp) and onto
the micro-SD card, please rename the "klipper.bin" file to "firmware.bin". Once you place the micro-SD card into the
Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader it will update its bootloader. To ensure that the board really did update the
bootloader pull the micro-SD card out of the Octopus board and reload it onto your PC. Check to see if the filename has
been change from "firmware.bin" to "FIRMWARE.CUR". If the filename changed then the Octopus board updated its bootloader correctly.
If you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 board or an Octopus Pro board with F446 chip, skip the following steps. These steps are for the Octopus PRO board with the F429. If you have an Octopus Pro board that uses the F429 chip, please follow the next steps:
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
The KIAUH menu will appear.
>4
>3
[*] Enable extra low-level configuration options by moving the cursor and hitting the space bar until the "*" appears.
The space bar is a toggle so when the "*" appears it means you have selected the item
when the "*" is not present it means the item is NOT selected. You use the arrow keys on your keyboard to move up and down the menu.
set Micro-controller Architecture to (STMicroelectronics STM32)
set Processor model to (STM32F429)
set Bootloader offset to (32KiB bootloader)
set Clock Reference to (8 Mhz crystal)
set Communication interface to (USB (on PA11/PA12))
>Q Y
The firmware will compile.
>B
>Q
You will now have to use a micro-SD card to flash the Octopus board with the new firmware. The Octopus board will not
update the firmware via USB cable! After you have copied the out\Klipper.bin file over to your PC (using Winscp) and onto
the micro-SD card, please rename the "klipper.bin" file to "firmware.bin". Once you place the micro-SD card into the
Octopus board's Micro-SD card reader it will update its bootloader. To ensure that the board really did update the
bootloader pull the micro-SD card out of the Octopus board and reload it onto your PC. Check to see if the filename has
been change from "firmware.bin" to "FIRMWARE.CUR". If the filename changed then the Octopus board updated its bootloader correctly.
At this point if you have an Octopus V1.0/V1.1 or an Octopus Pro with F446 chip or an Octopus Pro with F429 Chip, you have successfully updated its bootloader because the "firmware.bin" filename on the micro-SD card was renamed to "FIRMWARE.CUR"
But we will be needing the MCU ID for out Klipper configuration file, so let's log back into the Raspberry Pi by using Putty.
Now power the Octopus board via which USB-C or with an independent power supply. Connect the USB-C cable from the Octopus board to the Raspberry Pi's USB 2.0 port. We need to find the ID for this connection.
Please do the following:
$./kiauh/kiauh.sh
The KIAUH menu will appear.
>4
>6
>1
the menu will refresh, but, **above the menu** you will see something similar to my output (each Octopus board will generate a unique id).
● (USB) MCU #1: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_3B001B00115053424E363620-if00
Copy this string down because you will have to add it to your Klipper config file later.
>B
>Q
If you loose the MCU ID you can always rerun KIAUH option 4, option 6, choose 1 for USB, and it will display the information for you again.
Here is the link to the config file on GitHub for the Octopus pro V1.0 board https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/generic-bigtreetech-octopus.cfg.
Here is the link to the Klipper configuration file for the Voron 2.4 printer on the Voron 2.4 GitHub site https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/firmware/klipper_configurations/Octopus/Voron2_Octopus_Config.cfg
If you are using the "PROBE" connector for a proximity sensor you will need to add a [probe] section to the "generic-bigtreetech-octopus.cfg" file and ensure that the sensor_pin: PC5
There is only two PINs that are different between the Octopus V1.1 pin-out and the Octopus Pro V1.0 pin-out. The Octopus V1.1 pin-out has PC5 on the EXP2 connector but on the Octopus Pro V1.0 this pin on the EXP2 connector is now "Not Connected (NC)".
The second PIN difference is that on the Octopus V1.1 pin-out PB7 is the signal PIN used on the PROBE/SENSOR connector and on the BLTouch header but on the Octopus Pro V1.0 the signal pin on the PROBE connector is PC5. Which means that on the Octopus V1.1 board you can only use either a BLTouch or a Proximity Sensor but NOT both. On the Octopus Pro V1.0 since the signal pins for the PROBE connector is different from the BLTouch, if you wanted to, you could use both ports.
If you plan to use a voltage higher than 24V on MOTOR_POWER_IN then please pay attention to the footnote #1 on the "Color PIN Diagram".
You may need to change the Fuse on the MB_POWER_IN. To calculate the maximum amps you will be using on the MB_POWER_IN connection you will need to know the maximum amps allowed on the 24VDC rail for the motherboard.
To calculate the maximum amps allowed on the 24VDC rail on mother board:
(the four heaters {HE0-HE3}, 3.3VDC rail, 5VDC rail, and 12VDC rail are all produced from the 24VDC rail).
The maximum amps for 3.3VDC rail is 1 Amp.
The maximum amps for the 5VDC rail is 8 Amps.
The maximum amps for 12VDC rail is 4 Amps.
So the total maximum amps for 3.3VDC rail + 5VDC rail + 12VDC rail is equal to 13 Amps, but the amps needed to run the four heaters needs to be added to this value.
Since BIGTREETECH supplies us with a 20 Amp fuse, then BIGTREETECH is saying that you have 7 more Amps available for all four heater ports or 1.75 Amps / heater cartridge. Just do not use more than 7 Amps on any combination of the four heater {HE0-HE3} ports!
Please use the "Color PIN Diagram" in BTT_Octopus_Pro_V1.0_Color_PIN_Diagram to obtain the correct PIN assignments.
If you decide to flash a new bootloader to the Octopus Pro V1.0 board (you should not need to because you can upload the new Klipper firmware using the micro-SD card reader) and find that the micro-SD card bootloader no longer works you will want to return the board to its shipment state by finding the original bootloader and "bootloader+firmware" files at https://github.com/GadgetAngel/BTT_SKR_13_14_14T_SD-DFU-Bootloader/tree/main/bootloader_bin/backed_up_original_bootloaders