diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_1.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_1.md index 4930af7..706c7f0 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_1.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_1.md @@ -1,37 +1,60 @@ # Chapter 1: Battery Board Assembly -In this chapter, the user will learn the proper steps to assemble an Electrical Power System (EPS) board. The steps can be followed again to create an optional ballast to add weight to the satellite, or while not recommended, additional power to the satellite. +In this chapter, the user will learn the proper steps to assemble an Electrical Power System (EPS) board. **These steps can be followed again to create an optional ballast. These instructions are included below.** !!!Warning ***Before continuing:** it is important to note that gloves should be worn when soldering and it should be done in a well-ventilated area to avoid the harmful fumes.* ## Soldering the Relay -1. Align the relay onto the white box by the top left corner of the battery board. Make sure the dot on the top side of the relay is closest to the slot hole as seen as figure 1.1 - ![Figure 1-1](images/8-1.jpg) - *

Figure 1.1: Flight Controller Board

* +**1.** Align the relay onto the white outline by the top left corner of the battery board. -2. The Relay on the EPS board has through hole connections that will need to be soldered to on the bottom side as seen in Figure 1.2 - ![Figure 1-2](images/RELAY.png) - *

Figure 1.2

* +**2.** On the top side of the relay there is a dot that must be aligned to the slot hole as seen in Figure 1.1 + + *

**Figure 1.1: Flight Controller Board**

* +**3.** On the bottom side of the EPS board there are through connections where the Relay must be sodered as seen in Figure 1.2 -3. The sodering should not be flush to the board,rather there should be enough so that the relay's legs bend and it will be allowed to lay on it's side. This can be seen in figure 1.3 and is also stated on the board. -![Figure 1-2](images/relaylegs.jpeg) - *

Figure 1.3:

* + + + + *

**Figure 1.2**

* + + + +**4.** The sodering **should not** be flush to the board, rather there should be room for the relay's legs bend which will allow it to lay on it's side. This is stated on the board and is shown figure 1.3 + +*

**Figure 1.3**:

* +![Figure 1-2](images/RELAY.png) + ## Soldering the Battery Holders
--1. Insert the battery holders into the board from the backside. --2. Solder the through hole battery terminals on the top side of the EPS as seen in Figure 1.5 - *

Figure 1.5:

* +**1.** Insert the battery holders into the board from the backside. + +**2**. Solder the through hole battery terminals on the top side of the EPS as seen in Figure 1.5 + *

**Figure 1.5:**

* + ![Figure 1-5](images/BB.jpeg) ## **OPTIONAL**: Ballast Board creation
-1. Follow all of the prior steps to create a secondary EPS -2. If additional power is desired for the satellite, a wire can be soldered to the Pack+ Test point between both boards, and a wire can be soldered to the B- Test point between both boards. + + + +**1.** Follow all of the prior steps to create a secondary EPS + +!!!WARNING + It is not recommended that additional power be added to this satellite +**2.** If additional power is desired for the satellite, a wire can be soldered to the Pack+ Test point between both boards, and a wire can be soldered to the B- Test point between both boards. + + *

**Figure 1.6:**

*
## Check your work -If all steps were followed correctly, the EPS should appear as it does in Figure 1.6. (notwe that this should show both the front and back) -
\ No newline at end of file +If all steps were followed correctly, the EPS should appear as it does in Figure 1.7. + +!!!Note + This does not include the secondary EPS or additional power modifications stated above + + *

**Figure 1.7:**

* + \ No newline at end of file diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_2.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_2.md index d612037..6747e6e 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_2.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_2.md @@ -7,65 +7,92 @@ In this chapter the user will learn the steps to assemble a foot switch. A minim ## Make 4-6 Jumped 2 Position Pico-Lock Cable Assemblies
-1. 300mm 5 position Pico-Lock cable assemblies have been included in the kit as well as 2 position connectors. The 100mm assemblies will be used for connecting the solar boards to the EPS, and the 300mm assemblies will be used to create all the needed 2 position Pico-Lock assemblies. The first step will require taking a cable out of the 300mm 5 position assembly. To start, take the needle nose tweezers and lift the locking mechanism as seen in Figure 2.1 and pull the cable from each connector housing. -2. Take the freed cable and insert both ends into one 2 position connector housing as seen in Figure 2.2 -

Figure 2.2:

+ +!!! Note + 300mm 5 position Pico-Lock cable assemblies have been included in the kit as well as 2 position connectors. The 100mm assemblies will be used for connecting the solar boards to the EPS, and the 300mm assemblies will be used to create all the needed 2 position Pico-Lock assemblies. + +**1.** The first step will require taking a cable out of the 300mm 5 position assembly. To start, take the needle nose tweezers and lift the locking mechanism as seen in Figure 2.1 and pull the cable from each connector housing. + +*

**Figure 2.1:**

* +![Figure 2-1](images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG) + +**2.** Take the freed cable and insert both ends into one 2 position connector housing as seen in Figure 2.2 + +*

**Figure 2.2:**

* +![Figure 2-2](images/Jumped_2position.PNG) +
!!!note -The steps are similar for creating the non-jumped cables required for the burn wire and direct charging ports. The primary difference is that two cables will be required as well as 2 connector housings. The non-Jumped assemblies can be seen in Figure 2.3 + The steps are similar for creating the non-jumped cables required for the burn wire and direct charging ports. The primary difference is that two cables will be required as well as 2 connector housings. + -

Figure 2.3:

## Solder the Jumped Pico-Lock Assemblies to the switches
-1. Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4 -

Figure 2.4:

-2. Strip ends of assembly wires -3. Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire -4. Wrap wires around leads 1 and 3 respectively as seen in Figure 2.5 -

Figure 2.5:

-5. Solder wires to switch leads -6. Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around switch leads -7. Repeat these steps to create 2-4 foot switches and 1 RBF switch + +**1.** Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.3 +![Figure 2-3](images/Cutting_Jumped_2pos.PNG) + +*

**Figure 2.3**

* +**2.** Strip ends of assembly wires +**3.** Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire +**4.** Wrap wires around leads 1 and 3 respectively as seen in Figure 2.4 +*

**Figure 2.4**

* +![Figure 2-4](images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG) +**5.** Solder wires to switch leads +**6.** Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around switch leads +**7.** Repeat these steps to create 2-4 foot switches and 1 RBF switch
## Solder the Battery Heater Assembly
-1. Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4 -2. Strip ends of assembly wires -3. Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire -4. Strip ends of battery heater leads -5. Wrap wires around leads as seen in Figure 2.6 -

Figure 2.6:

-6. Solder wires to heater leads -7. Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around heater leads + +**1.** Take jumped assembly and cut in half as seen in Figure 2.4 +**2.** Strip ends of assembly wires +**3.** Slide heat shrink tubing down each wire +**4.** Strip ends of battery heater leads +**5.** Wrap wires around leads as seen in Figure 2.5 + +*

**Figure 2.5**

* +![Figure 2-5](images/wirewrapping.PNG) +**6.** Solder wires to heater leads +**7.** Move heat shrink tubing up and use hot air to shrink tubing around heater leads
## Create Foot Switch Assemblies
-1. Insert the M2x20 bolts into the holes of the non-embedded feet as seen in Figure 2.7 -

Figure 2.7:

-2. With the bolt inserted, apply some Loctite to the bolt on the opposite end -3. Holding the bolt in place with a Philips head screwdriver, insert the M2 lock nut into the opposite end of the foot and tighten the nut partially without allowing the bolt to go completely through the lock nut as seen in Figures 2.8 and 2.9 -

Figure 2.7 and Figure 2.8:

-4. Prepare a small amount of space rated glue -5. Apply the glue to the inside of the foot on the areas shown in Figure 2.10 -

Figure 2.10:

-6. Insert the switch into the foot as seen in Figure 2.11 -

Figure 2.11:

-7. Repeat steps for all foot switches -8. Insert all foot switch assemblies into the reflow oven and bake at 185C this will help cure the glue faster. -9. Let rest for an additional hour + +**1.** Insert the M2x20 bolts into the holes of the non-embedded feet as seen in Figure 2.6 + +*

**Figure 2.6**

* +![Figure 2-6](images/footswitch1.PNG) +**2.** With the bolt inserted, apply some Loctite to the bolt on the opposite end +**3.** Holding the bolt in place with a Philips head screwdriver, insert the M2 lock nut into the opposite end of the foot and tighten the nut partially without allowing the bolt to go completely through the lock nut as seen in Figures 2.7 and 2.8 + +*

**Figure 2.7 and Figure 2.8**

+ +**4.** Prepare a small amount of space rated glue +**5.** Apply the glue to the inside of the foot on the areas shown in Figure 2.9 + +*

**Figure 2.9**

* +**6.** Insert the switch into the foot as seen in Figure 2.10 +*

**Figure 2.10**

* +**7.** Repeat steps for all foot switches +**8.** Insert all foot switch assemblies into the reflow oven and bake at 185C this will help cure the glue faster. +**9.** Let rest for an additional hour
## Create RBF Switch assembly
-1. Insert RBF switch into holder as seen in Figure 2.12 -

Figure 2.12:

-2. Insert and fasten M2.5x8 or M2.5x10 bolts into the 3d printed side. The assembly can be seen in Figure 2.13 -

Figure 2.13:

+ +**1.** Insert RBF switch into holder as seen in Figure 2.11 + +*

**Figure 2.11**

* +**2.** Insert and fasten M2.5x8 or M2.5x10 bolts into the 3d printed side. The assembly can be seen in Figure 2.12 + +*

**Figure 2.12**

*
diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_3.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_3.md index 293fab9..809468f 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_3.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_3.md @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face **1.** Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.1. -

Figure 3.1: Z- Face Solar Board Preparation

+ *

**Figure 3.1: Z- Face Solar Board Preparation**

* **2.** Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB. @@ -34,10 +34,10 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face **1.** Get five 5 pin connectors and align them onto the white rectangular outline as seen in Figure 3.2 and 3.3. Ensure that the pins are aligned to the copper pads. ![Figure 3-2](images/5pinface1.jpeg) -*

Figure 3.2: Face 1 and Face 2 5-pin headers* +*

**Figure 3.2: Face 1 and Face 2 5-pin headers**

* ![Figure 3-3](images/5pinface2.jpeg) -*

Figure 3.3: Face 0, Face 3 and Solar Breakout 5-pin headers* +*

**Figure 3.3: Face 0, Face 3 and Solar Breakout 5-pin headers**

**2.** Tape down the 5-pin header with tape to ensure it does not move while you solder it on. @@ -65,22 +65,25 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to properly assembly the PROVES Z- Face !!!Note If your XY Face does not come with 5 pin headers installed, follow this section on how to properly solder them on. Otherwise, you can skip this section - a. Follow the silkscreen pattern on the board to place the components in the correct positions/orientations. For the pico-lock connectors line up the mounting pads when soldering connectors. + **1**. Follow the silkscreen pattern on the board to place the components in the correct positions/orientations. For the pico-lock connectors line up the mounting pads when soldering connectors. !!! warning Test all sensors for full functionality prior to solar cell installation (see Chapter 7 that identifies the proper test to complete for the solar boards). If sensors are faulty and need to be reflowed or removed with a heat gun, the cells will be damaged in the process. -2. **Install the Solar Cells (KXOB101K08F-TR) using low temperature solder paste and a reflow oven.** - a. Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.3. -

Figure 3.3: Before and After Solder Paste Application

- b. Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB (Note: you cannot tell the orientation of the cell from the top of the cell so make sure it is placed properly). +**2.** **Install the Solar Cells (KXOB101K08F-TR) using low temperature solder paste and a reflow oven.** + **a.** Apply Low Temperature Solder Paste to the pads on the Solar Board as seen in Figure 3.3. + *

**Figure 3.3: Before and After Solder Paste Application**

* + **b.** Check that the positive and negative terminals on the back side of the cells are matched with the plus and minus silk screened on the PCB - c. For cells that are immediately next to each other, scoot them together so that the gap between them is as small as possible. Otherwise, the fishing wire to stow the antenna may get caught in the cracks. + !!!WARNING + You **cannot** tell the orientation of the cell from the top of the cell so make sure it is placed properly. + + **c.** For cells that are immediately next to each other, scoot them together so that the gap between them is as small as possible. Otherwise, the fishing wire to stow the antenna may get caught in the cracks. ## Optional: Motor Driver Modification -3. **OPTIONAL: Remove 0 ohm resistor for motor driver as seen in Figure 3.4S** - a. If the solar board has already been removed from the oven, the resistor can be removed by a fine tip soldering iron heating each pad simultaneously. If the board is still hot from the oven, tweezers can be used very swiftly to remove the resistor. -

Figure 3.4: Motor Driver Resistor Removal

+**3.** **OPTIONAL: Remove 0 ohm resistor for motor driver as seen in Figure 3.4S** + **a.** If the solar board has already been removed from the oven, the resistor can be removed by a fine tip soldering iron heating each pad simultaneously. If the board is still hot from the oven, tweezers can be used very swiftly to remove the resistor. + *

**Figure 3.4: Motor Driver Resistor Removal**

* !!! Note The Motor Driver Modification step is completely optional as the magnetorquers can be deactivated in software. Only one X Magnetorquer and one perpendicular Y Magnetorquer need to remain active in order to detumble the satellite effectively. The Z- Solar board should let the magnetorquer coil remain active as this is the only coil on the Z faces. diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_4.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_4.md index 156aaf1..00b31d9 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_4.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_4.md @@ -4,67 +4,72 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to assemble the PROVES Flight Controlle !!!Warning ***Before continuing:** it is important to note that gloves should worn when soldering and it should be done in a well-ventilated area to avoid the harmful fumes.* -## Installing the 433 MHz HOPERF (Radio Module) +### Installing the 433 MHz HOPERF (Radio Module) !!! Note The Radio Module Footprint is located below the CubeSat Logo and has a white rectangle **1.** When soldering the radio, the exposed metal part on the underside of the module should be taped up with Kapton Tape in order to avoid contact with the copper pads on the HopeRF footprint of the FC Board. -![Figure 4-2](images/radiota.jpeg) - *

Figure 4-1 - Taped Section of Radio Module

* +*

**Figure 4.1a: Taped Section of Radio Module**

![Figure 4-2](images/radiota.jpeg) + -**2.** Align the radio module to the white rectangular outline. Refer to Figure 4-1 a. -
+**2.** Align the radio module to the white rectangular outline. Refer to Figure 4-1b. + *

**Figure 4.11b: Radio Module Footprint**

* + +
- *

Figure 4-1a Radio Module Footprint

* + **3.** On the radio module, there is a dot on the metal side which should be next to the C15 connection. ![Figure 4-3](images/radioc15.png) - *

Figure 4-2 Front Side of Radio Module

* + *

**Figure 4.2: Front Side of Radio Module**

* **4.** Tape down the radio module to ensure that it stays in place while soldering the pins of the radio module to the copper pads of the footprint on the FC Board. **5.** Once the radio module is aligned and secured, begin soldering. -**6.** Once radio module is properly soldered, it should the same as Figure 4-4. +**6.** Once radio module is properly soldered, it should the same as Figure 4.4. +*

**Figure 4.3: FC Board with Soldered Radio Module**

* ![Figure 4-4](images/radiofc.jpeg) -*

Figure 4-3: FC Board with Soldered Radio Module

* -**6.** Solder the copper pads of **JP6** together to make a connection for the radio module. -**7.** On **JP10**, create a jump by soldering the middle pad to the 5V pad together. +**7.** Solder the copper pads of **JP6** together to make a connection for the radio module. + +**8.** On **JP10**, create a jump by soldering the middle pad to the 5V pad together. ## Installing the RF-SMA (Radio Frequency - Surface Mount Adapter) -**1.** The RF-SMA that will be used for this section is seen in Figure 4-4. -
+**1.** The RF-SMA that will be used for this section is seen in Figure 4.4. + *

**Figure 4.4: RF-SMA**

* +
- *

Figure 4-4 RF-SMA

* + !!! Note Ensure that the RF-SMA that you are using matches the footprint seen on the Internal FC Board. Check the KiCAD Schematics for further details. Refer to Figure 4-5 to located the footprint. - + *

**Figure 4.5: RF-SMA Footprint**

*
- *

Figure 4-5 RF-SMA Footprint

* + **2. Proper Orientation** -  a. Refer to the XYZ Coordinate Axis on the FC Board as seen in Figure 4-6. +  **a.** Refer to the XYZ Coordinate Axis on the FC Board as seen in Figure 4-6. -  b. Point the **connector side** of the RF-SMA in the **Y-** direction relative to the XYZ coordinate axis on the board. -
+  **b.** Point the **connector side** of the RF-SMA in the **Y-** direction relative to the XYZ coordinate axis on the board. + *

**Figure 4.6: XYZ Coordinate Axis**

* +
- *

Figure 4-6 XYZ Coordinate Axis

* + **3. Soldering the RF-SMA** @@ -73,13 +78,13 @@ In this chapter, the user will learn how to assemble the PROVES Flight Controlle If Tape is not available, try and find an item or object to keep the board level to ensure the RF-SMA is secure and not loose. -  a. Solder the 5 pins of the RF-SMA to the 5 holes of the footprint. - -  b. Refer to Figure 4-8, to see what proper installation should look like. +  **a.** Solder the 5 pins of the RF-SMA to the 5 holes of the footprint. +  **b.** Refer to Figure 4.8, to see what proper installation should look like. +*

**Figure 4.8 Proper Installation**

*
- *

Figure 4-8 Proper Installation

* + diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_5.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_5.md index c5621ed..1b8ef47 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_5.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_5.md @@ -1,24 +1,121 @@ # Chapter 5: Antenna Board -1. **Cutting and Drilling the Antenna** - a. Using a Milwaukee 6ft keychain measuring tape, completely pull out the tape measure from the keychain. - b. Cut the measuring tape into 180mm lengths using a pair of scissors. These will need to be shortened down to a size correlated to the radio frequency. For example, the antenna lengths need to be 165mm to broadcast in the 437.4MHz range. Only 2 lengths are necessary for the satellite; however, it’s best to use all of it in case there is a mistake. If you are interested in broadcasting in other frequencies, use a dipole antenna calculator to find out the proper element length for your desired frequency. -

Figure 5.1: Lengths of measuring tape cut for use as antenna.

+ ## Cutting and Drilling the Antenna -!!! note - After attaching the antenna, you may need to shorten the antenna in order to tune it, but this can be done later. +**1.** Pull out the tape measure from a Milwaukee 6ft keychain measuring tape. + +**2.** Cut the measuring tape into 180 mm lengths using a pair of scissors and trim the lengths based on the desired radio frequency. + + +!!!Note + The antenna lengths need to be **165mm** to broadcast in the 437.4MHz range. Only 2 lengths are necessary for the satellite. If you are interested in broadcasting in other frequencies, use a dipole antenna calculator to find out the proper element length for your desired frequency. + +*

**Figure 5.1: Lengths of measuring tape cut for use as antenna.**

* +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.1 Measured 165mm length.

** + + +**3.** Using a Dremel or sandpaper, sand off roughly ½-inch of the paint off the end of the measuring tape. Do the same to the opposite side of the measuring tape. + + +**4.** Drill a hole through the exposed aluminum roughly 1-3mm away from the end of the length of measuring tape. Ensure you create a horizontal hole precisely in the center of the tape measure. + Refer to Figure 5.1a. +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.1a Hole made in the measuring tape

** + +!!!TIP + Make sure to feed it through the outward-facing side of the Top Cap so when the Top Cap is flipped over, the drilled hole of the antenna lines up with the open hole on the inward-facing side of the Top Cap + +## Soldering the Balun - c. Using a Dremel or sandpaper, sand off roughly ½-inch of the paint off the end of the measuring tape. Do the same to the opposite side of the measuring tape. -

Figure 5.2: Antenna length with sanded end and mount hole after drilling.

- d. After sanding off the paint so the aluminum is bare, use a M3 sized drill bit. Drill a hole through the exposed aluminum roughly 1-3mm away from the end of the length of measuring tape. + Before soldering the Antennas, we must solder the balun.The balun should be placed right in the middle of where we would feed the antennas. Refer to Figure 5.2 to see location. + +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.2 Soldered Balun.

** + +## Soldering the Lidar + + Flip the board over to the topside (the side with BOC and The PROVES Kit Ad Astra Tempore symbol). The lidar footprint is directly beneath the FPS USB ports, on the same side of the board. Refer to Figure 5.3 to see location. + +
+ +
+ +**

Figure 5.3 Soldered Balun.

** + +## Soldering Burn Wire + +!!! Note + This section **requires** Nichrome Wire + + 1. **Prepare the Burn Wire:** Flip the board to the topside and locate two white squares labeled "Burn Wire Port" with a fire symbol next to them. These squares each have two separate sections. + + 2. **Thread the Burn Wire:** Take one end of the burn wire and thread it through the bottom left corner of the **top** square. Then, thread the other end of the burn wire through the top left corner of the **bottom** square. Refer to Figure 5.4. +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.4 How to feed each wire. Top and Bot.

** + + 3. **Flip and Locate Wires:** Flip the board back over (bottom side facing you). You should now see two wires poking out from the bottom of the board. + + 4. **Solder the Burn Wire:** + + -**Burn Side:** Identify the wire coming from the top square (now on the bottom) - this is the burn wire. Feed it through the hole directly to its left (adjacent hole). Solder this wire to the topside of the board for a secure connection. + + -**Ground Wire:** The other wire from the bottom square (GND) goes to the next hole directly to its left (adjacent hole). Before soldering, bend the wire slightly to create a small arch on the topside of the board. Now, solder both the ends poking out the topside and the base of the arch you created. Refer to Figure 5.5. +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.5 Ideal burn wire loop and location.** + +## Soldering the Antennas + + Hold the antenna in place to solder it to the board. You can have someone hold it in place so it rests flush against the Top Cap or use a c-clamp to hold it as you are soldering. Refer to Figure 5.6 for how to feed teh antenna through. Then refer to Figure 5.6 a to see the full soldered antennas on the bottom of the board. +

+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.6 Fed Antenna end on one side.

** + +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.6a Soldered Antenna ends.

** + +## Soldering RFSMA Adapter + +1. **Locate and Position:** Find the RFSMA Adapter. Hold it with the five pins facing down towards the bottom side of the board (the side where you previously soldered the Balun). Ensure the pointed tip with grooves is facing the Balun. Refer to Figure 5.7 for postion and location. +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.7 Soldered RFSMA Adapter facing the direction of the Balun.

** + +2. **Secure the Adapter:** Once the pins are aligned with their designated holes on the board, carefully secure the adapter in place using tape. -2. **Soldering Antenna to Board** - a. First, feed the drilled side of the measuring tape through the outermost rectangular hole of the Top Cap. Make sure to feed it through the outward-facing side of the Top Cap so when the Top Cap is flipped over, the drilled hole of the antenna lines up with the open hole on the inward-facing side of the Top Cap. -

Figure 5.3: Initial insert of antenna in Top Cap before soldering.

+3. **Flip and Prepare for Soldering:** Flip the board over so the topside (with the lidar) is facing you. We'll now solder the five pins from this topside for a strong connection. +## RBF Switch - b. Hold the antenna in place to solder it to the board. You can have someone hold it in place so it rests flush against the Top Cap or use a c-clamp to hold it as you are soldering. +Finally we will soldar the RBF Switch onto the bottom side of the board (the side we have the balun on). Postion the RBF switch ends and pin to face in the direction of the RFSMA Adapter. Refer to Figure 5.8 to see location and ideal postion. +
+ +
+ + **

Figure 5.8 Soldered RBF Switch.

** - c. Repeat step 6 with the other length of measuring tape for the 2nd antenna of the satellite. - d. **OPTIONAL:** Secure the two antennas to the top-cap by feeding a white 2.5mm nylon screw through the outward-facing side of the top-cap and secure it with a matching white 2.5mm nylon nut + !!! Note Optional: + Secure the two antennas to the top-cap by feeding a white 2.5mm nylon screw through the outward-facing side of the top-cap and secure it with a matching white 2.5mm nylon nut diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_6.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_6.md index ccc10b9..599425f 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_6.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_6.md @@ -1,26 +1,48 @@ # Chapter 6: Structure Pre-Integration -1. **Cataloging Parts** - a. **The Structure** - i. Measure the dimensions of each half of the anodized Main “U” structure and label them. Use calipers to measure the width of each of the two sheet metal halves. - ii. Figure 6.1 shows an example measurement of the width using calipers, as well as other dimensions of the structure. These additional measurements are useful for verifying that your satellite will fit inside a launch vehicle pod after integration is complete and to ensure no damage has occurred during shipping. - +## **Cataloging Parts** + #### The Structure !!! warning - Make sure not to bend the U-shape inwards when measuring, as this will ruin the measurement. Take the measurement as close to the “closed” side of the U as possible. + When measuring it is important to **not** bend the U-shape inwards. Take the measurement as close to the “closed” side of the U as possible. -

Figure 6.1: Example measurements of Main “U” structure.

+**1.** Measure the dimensions of each half of the anodized Main “U” structure and label them. Use calipers to measure the width of each of the two sheet metal halves. -!!! note - If you are planning on flying your satellite and have more than two Main “U” structure halves, record and identify which structures are optimal for flight. The structures should come in at about 99.77mm nominally, but they will vary depending on the bends and the anodizing. +*

**Figure 6.1: How to make measurements of Main “U” structure.**

* +![Figure 6-1](images/measureU.png) + +!!!note + These additional measurements are useful for verifying that your satellite will fit inside a launch vehicle pod after integration is complete and to ensure no damage has occurred during shipping. + +*

**Figure 6.2: Sample measurements of the U structure**

* + +
-2. **Checking out the PEM-Nuts** - a. The structure and brackets all contain PEM-Nuts. Figure 6.2 identifies all the locations for the PEM-Nuts. -

Figure 6.2: Locations of PEM-Nuts.

+ | |Width (mm) | Height (mm)| + |--------|-----------|-----------| + | s1 | 100.35 |113.08 | + | s2 | 100.05 |113.04 | + | s3 | 100.47 |113.06 | + | s4 | 100.14 |113.14 | + | s5 | 100.39 |113.05 | + | s6 | 99.67 |113.03 | + | s7 | 100.59 |113.02 | + | s8 | 100.23 |113.10 | +
-3. **Accessing the Jig STL File** - a. Access the GitHub Documentation repository where an STL file can be obtained and printed for the jig. +!!! tip + It is important to record and identify which "U" structure halves are most optimal for flight if you have **more than two "U" structure halves** The structures should come in at about 99.77mm nominally, but they will vary depending on the bends and the anodizing. + +**2.** **Checking out the PEM-Nuts** + The structure and brackets all contain PEM-Nuts. + +*

**Figure 6.3: Locations of PEM-Nuts**

* + ![Figure 6-3](images/pemnuts.png) + !!! note - The Jig will become very important for ensuring the satellite is squared up enough to fit into its deployment mechanism. + The Jig is needed in order to ensure the satellite is squared up enough to fit into its deployment mechanism. + +**3.** **Accessing the Jig STL File** + Access the GitHub Documentation repository where an STL file can be obtained and printed for the jig. -4. **Repeat steps 1 through 3 for each solar board.** +**4.** **Repeat steps 1 through 3 for each solar board.** diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_7_testing/battery_board_testing.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_7_testing/battery_board_testing.md index c232afe..082c4cb 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_7_testing/battery_board_testing.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_7_testing/battery_board_testing.md @@ -14,7 +14,7 @@ The cells may end up in the danger zone for one of two reasons: - **Undervoltage:** Concern for the health of the battery but not a safety concern. - **Overvoltage:** Concern for the health of the battery and the safety of the people around the battery. Overcharging can cause the battery to explode. ->**CAUTION:** Before proceeding with this test, ensure the batteries you utilize all have a voltage of 3.4V and above and are balanced (each cell within +- 0.05V from each other). +!!!Warning **CAUTION:** Before proceeding with this test, ensure the batteries you utilize all have a voltage of 3.4V and above and are balanced (each cell within +- 0.05V from each other). The main objectives in testing the battery board are to verify that the battery protection network and voltage regulation are functioning properly. Follow these steps: @@ -24,18 +24,18 @@ The main objectives in testing the battery board are to verify that the battery 2. **Check Battery Connection** - Flip the board over and observe the various test points. - - Use a voltmeter to test the pack voltage. Place the positive probe into the PACK+ test point and the negative probe into the B- test point. The voltage should be greater than 6V. + - Use a voltmeter to test the pack voltage. Place the positive probe into the B+ test point and the negative probe into the B- test point. The voltage should be greater than 6V. - If the pack voltage is below 6V, follow troubleshooting steps: - If voltage is below 6V but not 0V, recharge the cells. - If voltage is at 0V, check battery polarity and solder joint connections. - Test voltages across each cell; replace any cell sitting at 0V. 3. **Battery Protection Check** - - Test the pack voltage against ground. Place the positive probe into the PACK+ test point and the negative probe into the GND test point. The voltage should match the pack voltage. + - Test the pack voltage against ground. Place the positive probe into the B+ test point and the negative probe into the GND test point. The different voltage measurements should match. - If the voltage differs, check for overcharge or over discharge protections. 4. **Jump J18 for Power** - - Jump J18 on the top side of the board with a jumper to bypass the feet switches and RBF switch. + - Jump J18 on the top side of the board with a jumper cable to bypass the feet switches and RBF switch. 5. **Voltage Regulation Test** - Test the 3.3V on the board. Place the positive probe into the 3.3V test point and the negative probe into the GND test point. @@ -46,4 +46,4 @@ The main objectives in testing the battery board are to verify that the battery - Test all points against GND, then depress the RBF switch and retest. - Replace switches if they do not function properly. -7. **Final Steps** +If everything checks out then its good to go! diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_8.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_8.md index 7da1fd8..d7e61c8 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_8.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_8.md @@ -1,76 +1,81 @@ # Chapter 8: Integration Procedure -## 1) Building the Cube -### a. Initial Structure Assembly - - **i.** For this part of the integration, you will need two Main “U” halves, four small L-shaped brackets, and stainless steel 5mm long M2.5 Button Head fasteners. +## Building the Cube +### Initial Structure Assembly + **1.** For this part of the integration, you will need two Main “U” halves, four small L-shaped brackets, and stainless steel 5mm long M2.5 Button Head fasteners. -

Fig 8.1: Main structure components

+*

**Figure 8.1: Main structure components**

* !!! note It is extremely important that the button head fasteners are used in this step and NOT the pan head fasteners for the L Brackets as this will allow the Solar Boards to fit on top of the fasteners. - - **ii.** Loosely attach the two halves together using the four L-brackets and 5mm fasteners as shown in figure 8.1 below. Ensure not to over-tighten as we will “square up” the structure later using a jig. + **2.** Loosely attach the two halves together using the four L-brackets and 5mm fasteners as shown in figure 8.1 below. Ensure not to over-tighten as we will “square up” the structure later using a jig. -

Figure 8.2: Example of how to attach the L brackets to initial structure assembly.

+*

**Figure 8.2: Example of how to attach the L brackets to initial structure assembly.**

* !!! warning Make sure to ALWAYS screw in the fasteners horizontally when dealing with pre-installed pem-nuts. - - **iii.** If you happen to pop out one of the pem-nuts, secure the fasteners with locknuts but be extra careful not to tighten them too much. + **3.** If you happen to pop out one of the pem-nuts, secure the fasteners with locknuts but be extra careful not to tighten them too much. !!! warning TORQUE SPEC IS 0.59 N-M (5.22 IN-LB), DO NOT EXCEED THIS ON M2.5 BOLTS/FASTENERS. -## 2) Card Brackets & Battery Board -### a. Initial bracket mounting. - - **i.** Secure 2 battery board card brackets onto the board using M2.5x5mm Pan Head bolts as shown in Figure 8.3 below. +## Card Brackets & Battery Board +### Initial bracket mounting. + **1.** Secure 2 battery board card brackets onto the board using M2.5x5mm Pan Head bolts as shown in Figure 8.3 below. -

Figure 8.3: Initial Card Bracket Mount to Battery Board

- - **ii.** There are two separate approaches to this next step: - 1. Angle the board diagonally with attached brackets and insert into the internal volume of the main structure. Use the board mounting holes on the main structure to secure the battery board using M2.5x5mm pan head bolts. There are several mounting hole options through the vertical length of the structure although the two holes extend further to the bottom on each corner of the structure should be reserved for mounting the feet. + *

**Figure 8.3: Initial Card Bracket Mount to Battery Board**

* + **There are two separate approaches to this next step:** + + **a.** Angle the board diagonally with attached brackets and insert into the internal volume of the main structure. + + Use the board mounting holes on the main structure to secure the battery board using M2.5x5mm pan head bolts. + + There are several mounting hole options through the vertical length of the structure although the two holes extend further to the bottom on each corner of the structure should be reserved for mounting the feet. -

Figure 8.4: Approach 1 of Installing Battery Board Inside Structure

+ *

**Figure 8.4: Approach 1 of Installing Battery Board Inside Structure**

* - 2. The second approach to inserting the battery board would be taking the Structure Halves apart and inserting the board along with any additional boards (battery board(s), development boards, payloads, etc.) into one of the Half U’s. Once the board is inserted, the holes on the bracket is aligned with the structure and fastened with the M2.5x5 Pan Head fasteners. The other Half U can be brought back in and installed like in the Building the Cube step, and the remaining bracket holes can be mounted to the structure. **Figure 8.5** + **b.** The second approach to inserting the battery board would be taking the Structure Halves apart and inserting the board along with any additional boards (battery board(s), development boards, payloads, etc.) into one of the Half U’s. + + Once the board is inserted, the holes on the bracket is aligned with the structure and fastened with the M2.5x5 Pan Head fasteners. The other Half U can be brought back in and installed like in the Building the Cube step, and the remaining bracket holes can be mounted to the structure. -

Figure 8.5: Approach 2 of Installing Battery Board Inside Structure

+*

**Figure 8.5: Approach 2 of Installing Battery Board Inside Structure**

* -### b. Applying Thermocouple - - **i.** Apply space-rated glue to the Thermocouple and place it on the side of one of the two middle batteries. Make sure that the metal part of the thermocouple is touching the battery casing. - -

Figure 8.6: Applied Thermocouple

+### Applying Thermocouple + **1.** Apply space-rated glue to the Thermocouple and place it on the side of one of the two middle batteries. Make sure that the metal part of the thermocouple is touching the battery casing. + *

**Figure 8.6: Applied Thermocouple**

* -### c. Applying Thermal Blanket - - **i.** Place strips of double-sided Kapton tape along the face of the batteries and press the thermal blanket down against the exposed tape. +### Applying Thermal Blanket + **1.** Place strips of double-sided Kapton tape along the face of the batteries and press the thermal blanket down against the exposed tape. + *

**Figure 8.7: Applying Thermal Blanket**

* + **2.** Fold the ends back against the outer-facing side of the thermal blanket. -

Figure 8.7: Applying Thermal Blanket

- - **ii.** Fold the ends back against the outer-facing side of the thermal blanket. + *

**Figure 8.8: Thermal blanket placed over batteries**

* -

Figure 8.8: Thermal blanket placed over batteries

- -## 3) Integrating Satellite Feet -### a. Installing Feet Assembly - - **i.** Use Blue Loctite, M2.5x10mm pan head fasteners, and M2.5 locknuts to install the feet. - - **ii.** Install the feet so the feet with the switches inside them are all diagonal from one another. - -

Figure 8.9: Placement of Foot Switches on structure layout

- - **iii.** To install the feet on the structure, place locknuts in the small openings of the feet as shown in Figure 8.10 with the nylon side of the locknut facing towards the interior of the satellite. Press downwards on the top of the feet while also pressing them up against the side of the structure. +## Integrating Satellite Feet +### Installing Feet Assembly + **1.** Use Blue Loctite, M2.5x10mm pan head fasteners, and M2.5 locknuts to install the feet. + **2.** Install the feet so the feet with the switches inside them are all diagonal from one another. + *

**Figure 8.9: Placement of Foot Switches on structure layout**

* + **3.** To install the feet on the structure, place locknuts in the small openings of the feet as shown in Figure 8.10 with the nylon side of the locknut facing towards the interior of the satellite. Press downwards on the top of the feet while also pressing them up against the side of the structure. -

Figure 8.10: Feet with switch assembly

- - **iv.** Dip the ends of the 10mm long fasteners in Loctite and secure the feet in place. - ! -

Figure 8.11: The two different feet installed in structure

+ *

**Figure 8.10: Feet with switch assembly**

* + + **4.** Dip the ends of the 10mm long fasteners in Loctite and secure the feet in place. + +*

**Figure 8.11: The two different feet installed in structure**

* -## 4) Squaring the Satellite -### a. It’s Jig Time! -- Place the structure into the jig as shown in figure 8.11. Slide it back and forth multiple times through the jig to square up the structure. +## Squaring the Satellite +### It’s Jig Time! +Place the structure into the jig as shown in figure 8.11. Slide it back and forth multiple times through the jig to square up the structure. !!! note If you cannot fit the satellite into the jig, loosen the fasteners on the structure (not including the feet) and attempt to fit it again. -

Figure 8.12: Example of squaring the satellite inside a 3D-printed jig.

+*

**Figure 8.12: Example of squaring the satellite inside a 3D-printed jig.**

* -- Without taking the satellite out, unscrew fasteners one at a time and secure them by dipping them in Blue Loctite and placing them back in the structure. Be careful with the fasteners that are screwed into the small L brackets. + Without taking the satellite out, unscrew fasteners one at a time and secure them by dipping them in Blue Loctite and placing them back in the structure. Be careful with the fasteners that are screwed into the small L brackets. diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_9.md b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_9.md index bc8c2ce..d062666 100644 --- a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_9.md +++ b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/Chapter_9.md @@ -1,23 +1,24 @@ # Chapter 9: Final Check and Tests -NOTICE: not all tests are up to date. +!!!WARNING + Not all tests are up to date ## Final Check for Electronics -The final check for the electronics in the integration process involves running the same flat sat test code to ensure everything is communicating with each other when stacked in the satellite. For guidance on how to do these tests refer to the quick start guide, particularly how to use Tabby. +The final check for the electronics in the integration process involves running the same flat sat test code to ensure everything is communicating with each other when stacked in the satellite. For guidance on how to do these tests refer to the [quick start guide](proves_quick_start.md), particularly how to use Tabby. A fully assembled structure is required for this test: -1. **Plug in the Micro USB Cable** +**1.** **Plug in the Micro USB Cable** -2. **Check Switch States** +**2.** **Check Switch States** - Make sure the feet switches and RFB Switch are not depressed. The satellite should be on before continuing (this can be verified by probing the 3.3V pin on the top of the flight computer). -3. **Open a Serial Terminal Connection to the Satellite** +**3.** **Open a Serial Terminal Connection to the Satellite** -4. **Run Flat Sat Test** - - Type the command: `import flatsattest`. (dont have this) +**4.** **Run Flat Sat Test** + - Type the command: `import flatsattest`. -5. **Observe Results** +**5.** **Observe Results** - The following set of results should appear. diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Cutting_Jumped_2pos.PNG b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Cutting_Jumped_2pos.PNG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..094375c Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Cutting_Jumped_2pos.PNG differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Feed.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Feed.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c6e413 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Feed.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Hole.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Hole.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e818888 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Hole.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Jumped_2position.PNG b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Jumped_2position.PNG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..05c4c65 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Jumped_2position.PNG differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d053501 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/PicolockAssemblies.PNG differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/RBF S.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/RBF S.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..97b199e Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/RBF S.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Soldered.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Soldered.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2fa933 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/Soldered.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/balun.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/balun.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9f87ba7 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/balun.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/burn wire.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/burn wire.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..87cbd6a Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/burn wire.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/finished.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/finished.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..43c9819 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/finished.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/footswitch1.PNG b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/footswitch1.PNG new file mode 100644 index 0000000..02bd73c Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/footswitch1.PNG differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/lidar.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/lidar.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3fca0cd Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/lidar.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/measureU.png b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/measureU.png new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9348feb Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/measureU.png differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/pemnuts.png b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/pemnuts.png new file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ccbcf7 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/pemnuts.png differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/raw.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/raw.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..186c8d1 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/raw.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/rf.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/rf.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..29f60ef Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/rf.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/top-bot.jpeg b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/top-bot.jpeg new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dada8b5 Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/top-bot.jpeg differ diff --git a/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/wirewrapping.png b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/wirewrapping.png new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a9eba4c Binary files /dev/null and b/docs/Assembly_Guide_V2/images/wirewrapping.png differ